Coolant is still running too cold?

[Robo]

Thanx mate. I was considering it following another member's comment. I'm sure there's a reason for T(or preferably Y) pieces were used. I was open to the idea of re-routing it 'cos some of the LPG conversion work(electrical wiring work) on this vehicle was well below
standards. So, I was contemplating on the possibility of sloppiness by the installer with the coolant plumbing as well.
It's obviously too easy to plumb the coolant hoses to the LPG converter & heater core without T joints. So, there must be a reason for the extra work of using T pieces.
I've been trying to find some relevant information online on coolant plumbing specs on LPG, but haven't been able to so far.

BTW, I don't have to route the coolant first into the LPG converter. It can be into the heater core first and then into the LPG converter as well. By following the way the coolant valve work on the heater core, I'm pretty sure now that shutting the coolant valve by sliding the dashboard heater controller to cool direction doesn't mean shutting the water flow then and there on the heater core.
It must be flowing back into the block(or LPG converter, depending on the plumbing priority)regardless of whether the hot coolant goes through the heater core or not. Having a valve that shuts the coolant flow in the heater core can't be a good thing. I think the way HVAC(particularly heater control valve) works in the RB30 Patrol is as in below diagram.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p..._heatertap.jpg

Thanx

P.S. I said "I'm pretty sure" in the writing in red above. But, actually I'm not sure yet.

Just use the T pcs mate, reversing the flow direction to heater core firstly will reduce the optimal level of heat needed for the conversion of lpg to vapor, the reverse of previous statement, less heat for cabin for the cooler months.

see how you go with the thermostat and let us know how you go, cheers.