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Thread: Coolant is still running too cold?

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    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robo View Post
    Just use the T pcs mate, reversing the flow direction to heater core firstly will reduce the optimal level of heat needed for the conversion of lpg to vapor, the reverse of previous statement, less heat for cabin for the cooler months.

    see how you go with the thermostat and let us know how you go, cheers.
    Yeah mate. You were right about T pieces being there for a reason. And I was wrong about heater core coolant entry having a four way valve as above anyway. I've corrected that in a post after that, and I'm just about to post all the details, pictures from the factory manual and Gregory's manual about it.
    T joints were put there 'cos there's no other way to do it. Series setup would've cut the coolant flow to LPG converter or heater core or both depending on which one I plumb the coolant entry first. When the tap inside the heater core is shut by sliding the dashboard heater slider to cold, that will cut the coolant flow completely, which won't be a good thing for the LPG converter to start with.(and may even create cavitation air bubbles on the coolant return line to the engine block, which would "help" to create cracks in the cylinder head in no time, so it's definitely a bad idea)

    I will replace the thermostat with a brand new stock one (76 degrees) to start with and see how it goes, 'cos the current one is opening up at around 70 degrees or bit less, which I think the major reason for low temperature. If the new one still yields low temperature then I will install a one bit higher, like 80 degrees or so.

    I will also replace T pieces with Y pieces soon. I've been told it's better for the flow and helps reduce cavitation(air bubbles inside coolant).

    Cheers
    Dom
    Last edited by dom14; 23rd August 2016 at 02:07 AM.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
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