Coolant is still running too cold?

[dom14]

Is the sensor getting enough flow where it is mounted? Mine is just one of those adapters, cut a section of the top hose out, put adapter in, screw the gauge into that.

FWIW. My rb30 takes forever to warm up. Just idling, even for ten minutes, only gets the temp up to 65-70. It did it with two thermostats I've had in it. A 5-10minute drive gets it up to temp pretty quick though, don't rely on just idling it to get it to temp.

Yours would take even longer as it's losing temperature to the gas converter as well.

Thanx mate. I wish you've told me that bit earlier!
I think the flow is good. I inserted it a fair bit in with a bit of wire inside the hose as well.
Yeah, to be honest, I'm not too fussed about engine not heating to normal operating temperature after idling for ten-fifteen minutes.
I'm only slightly concerned about it running at that temperature on long trips.
I know, the way it is can be an advantage in big red during the summer time, but not right now though.
I reckon, I can switch the thermostat to fit the season.
As a matter of fact, I'm beginning to believe that what we should be doing with thermostats. Since we seem to be getting somewhat to extreme ends of the temperature spectrum in Melbourne during summer and winter, the thermostat may need to be adjusted accordingly, 'cos I don't think there's such thing as "smart thermostats".

Can you please post a picture of your sensor adapter thingy here?!!
That would help me a lot to get some idea how you plugged in the sensor to the rubber hose.
Thanx.

[threedogs]

Is the sensor getting enough flow where it is mounted? Mine is just one of those adapters, cut a section of the top hose out, put adapter in, screw the gauge into that.

FWIW. My rb30 takes forever to warm up. Just idling, even for ten minutes, only gets the temp up to 65-70. It did it with two thermostats I've had in it. A 5-10minute drive gets it up to temp pretty quick though, don't rely on just idling it to get it to temp.

Yours would take even longer as it's losing temperature to the gas converter as well.

Same here my patrol takes ages to get to temperature Id say a good 10-15 Kays
@dom14 you need to bleed the air from that hose on the condenser,

[dom14]

Same here my patrol takes ages to get to temperature Id say a good 10-15 Kays
@dom14 you need to bleed the air from that hose on the condenser,

What condenser mate? Did you mean the radiator??!!

BTW, the reason you're still seeing T-joints at the back of the coolant intersection to the heater core/LPG converter is that, I did get Y joints, but they are taking up a fair bit of room and looks pretty cumbersome. So, I was thinking re-doing it in a series like setup or something without having to use T or Y joints. The thought has crossed my mind while ago, hence the reason for not putting Y joints there. Now, the member @garett kinda indicated that's how he would do it as well.

So, I'm thinking getting a couple of joiner pieces and a piece of hose and converting it from parallel setup to series setup, as depicted in below diagrams.

Any thoughts, ideas?!!!
ATM, I can't see any advantage of this existing parallel setup other than being a PITA with extra T-joints and extra headaches that come with it.
Please correct me me, if I'm about to do the wrong thing.

[Throbbinhood]

Can you please post a picture of your sensor adapter thingy here?!!

Hey mate, don't have a pic of it installed, but this is basically what I bought. Should give you an idea.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/1613...pid=107&chn=ps

[jay see]

Hey mate, don't have a pic of it installed, but this is basically what I bought. Should give you an idea.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/1613...pid=107&chn=ps

@dom 14

If you want one of these I've got a brand new aeroflow one that you can have.



Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[dom14]

I installed the temperature sensor in the coolant port right next to the thermostat housing.

I went for an uphill drive in Mount Dandenong and the temperature went up to 71 degrees and that was it.

[Throbbinhood]

Where does that coolant line go?

Why not leave it in the top hose and work from there. That way at least you've got some Continuity in your testing.

[dom14]

Where does that coolant line go?

Why not leave it in the top hose and work from there. That way at least you've got some Continuity in your testing.

The hose I attached the sensor in above picture goes to the heater core/LPG converter. The coolant line the hose joins comes directly out of the engine block water jacket behind the thermostat(not after it). The thermostat hose in the picture carries "cold" water from the bottom hose of the radiator. So, it's lot "colder" than the coolant outside the thermostat until the thermostat opens.

[dom14]

Now I'm pretty sure now it's the thermostat that causes the coolant temperature to run bit low in mine.
I'll be replacing the thermostat with higher temperature setting one.
But, the existing one is also opening up few degrees lower than it should be.


I haven't heard anything from anybody so far about my idea or re-routing the coolant lines to the heater core/LPG converter, from parallel setup to a series setup as in above diagrams and as I pasted it below again.

So, where is everybody? No opinions, ideas, thoughts, advice on that at all????!!!!!

BTW,
The original heater core/LPG converter coolant re-routing diagram of mine was slightly misleading 'cos I made it painted like I'm taking the coolant outlet line directly from thermostat housing coolant line, which it is NOT.
Corrected diagram is as below.

[GeeYou8]

The hose I attached the sensor in above picture goes to the heater core/LPG converter. The coolant line the hose joins comes directly out of the engine block water jacket behind the thermostat(not after it). The thermostat hose in the picture carries "cold" water from the bottom hose of the radiator. So, it's lot "colder" than the coolant outside the thermostat until the thermostat opens.

I thought that the thermostat controlled the hot water leaving the engine into the top of the radiator to be cooled then pumped from the bottom of the radiator through the block (pump assisted thermo syphon).