New 110 alternator only putting out 14.1 volts.

[4bye4]

When I checked the wires and fuses, the old 30A fuse was still going, but getting pretty hot.

The fuse may get hot way below its rated value if there is a high resistance connection, for example corrosion in the fuse holder or on the fuse blade.

[the evil twin]

The way above "80%" is a rough estimation from the voltage reading of the battery.



Pretty sure the battery is good. It's cca readings are still good and cranks like hell.



didn't measure it. Just estimated from the 30A fuse.
I don't have an ammeter capable of measuring amps that high.

So I take it from that post you now agree that your battery current isn't "way above 30 amps"?

[AGman]

didn't measure it. Just estimated from the 30A fuse.
I don't have an ammeter capable of measuring amps that high.

If you want to know, PM me your address and I'll send you my clamp meter.

[Yendor]

I upgraded the 60A alternator to a 110A one. The original charge wire was around 30A capacity with a 30A fuse.
I added a second charge wire with a 60A fuse. So, the combined ampacity of the two wires was roughly 90A(30+60).
The battery is generally at least 80% of it's state of charge, so the second 60A wire was not much of any use for a single battery most of the time, so I thought. 60A fuse of the second wire accidentally got blown & oddly enough, the alternator warning light on the dash came on. When I checked the wires and fuses, the old 30A fuse was still going, but getting pretty hot.
What was apparently happening was the Charge Acceptance Rate(CAR) of the battery was high enough to draw significant amount of amps from the alternator, and the old 30A wire and fuse was not quite enough.

My point being, that such an alternator upgrade does matter, even when a second auxiliary battery is not there to draw the extra possible amps from the alternator. The cranker for the most part is still capable of utilizing the advantage of the upgraded alternator, provided the charge wire and fuse are also upgraded accordingly.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-short-circuit

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...or-RB30-Patrol

So, the above rule of thumb,

("Rule of thumb for a standard Lead Acid vented battery at better than 50% charge is the CAR will be max 30% of the capacity IE 30 Amps
The limiting factor to current flow is the physics behind the battery
For the same battery at 80% the CAR will drop to around 15% of capacity.")

In my case, the battery is obviously on a far better charge state than 50%.
I would say 80% or more, yet it managed to draw way above 30A from the alternator, since the upgraded alternator was very much capable of outputting closer to at least 100A(for an alternator with a rating of 110A).

Seriously you need to get off road more. Lock the hubs in and just go

[dom14]

Seriously you need to get off road more. Lock the hubs in and just go

No kidding!!! I'm almost there.

[dom14]

So I take it from that post you now agree that your battery current isn't "way above 30 amps"?

I don't agree or disagree(may be I wasn't clear about it in the previous post).
I was merely posting my experience and hoping some good answers would come out of that.
It apparently has.
I can vouch for the good condition of the cranker battery.
I can't do that for any of the wiring though.
As another poster mentioned above, there may be excessive resistance in the old wiring of the 30A charge line.
Your post about the batteries with SOC above 80% or more not drawing higher amps like 30A from the alternator makes general sense.

[dom14]

If you want to know, PM me your address and I'll send you my clamp meter.

Thanx mate. I'm sure you don't wanna send the clamp meter on it's own.