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Thread: TD42 water pumps... what would you be prepared to pay

  1. #21
    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Any cavitation issues related to water pumps will be more due to high revving hot engines combined with poor coolant quality rather than water pump impeller gap.

    Reducing the gap will increase the flow but then you need to be sure that the other components in the system can handle that. Also be wary of pumping coolant too quickly through the radiator..

    I'm new to TD42 engines but I've done a fair bit of research since I started my conversion and I haven't come across any other mention of these engines having cavitation issues with standard water pumps.
    This is why I found BA's original premise interesting.
    As Cuppa mentioned, these TD42s have more of a reputation for solidity and longevity.

    Here's a pic of the original water pump I removed from my engine. Not the slightest sign of cavitation erosion.

    ...IMG_2599.JPG
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    John is right. Cavitation will usually only occur at sustained high rpm. Cavitation is usually a supply issue so there is not enough water available to be pumped.

    Machining will help to increase flow but is not enough of an increase to cause problems. It is still within the control of your thermostat and cap.

    You dont have to machine it. You can just replace it with a new one.

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    Thank you guys this is good stuff... in the end I have stayed with the stock pump but have just finished replacing the radiator.

    Its a subject I had not heard of until a few weeks ago and the discussions varied... cheers for all the input.

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Some really good advice in this thread gents on this subject from knowledgable members, well done!

    There are bucket loads of wrong information about this on Facebook!

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AB View Post
    Some really good advice in this thread gents on this subject from knowledgable members, well done!

    There are bucket loads of wrong information about this on Facebook!
    Thats why I don't use FB. I use NP Book.

    Will be interesting to see what temps I will see when I'm up and running.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    Any cavitation issues related to water pumps will be more due to high revving hot engines combined with poor coolant quality rather than water pump impeller gap.

    Reducing the gap will increase the flow but then you need to be sure that the other components in the system can handle that. Also be wary of pumping coolant too quickly through the radiator..

    I'm new to TD42 engines but I've done a fair bit of research since I started my conversion and I haven't come across any other mention of these engines having cavitation issues with standard water pumps.
    This is why I found BA's original premise interesting.
    As Cuppa mentioned, these TD42s have more of a reputation for solidity and longevity.

    Here's a pic of the original water pump I removed from my engine. Not the slightest sign of cavitation erosion.

    ...IMG_2599.JPG
    Going by the pic of impeller I'd hazzard a guess of some cavitation present given the partial & uneven cleanliness of the impeller.
    wouldn't a even flow of coolant produce even deposits?.
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    John is right. Cavitation will usually only occur at sustained high rpm. Cavitation is usually a supply issue so there is not enough water available to be pumped.

    Machining will help to increase flow but is not enough of an increase to cause problems. It is still within the control of your thermostat and cap.

    You dont have to machine it. You can just replace it with a new one.
    I used to own a boat and my take on cav is its also linked to power supply ( linked to rev's as pointed out by nissannewby )overtaking the ability of pitch of blade to grip the water.
    gap and impeller design has heaps to do with cavitation.
    nismo gtr performance pump ver's std pump,std & N1pump.jpg have larger blade but 1 less and a backing plate on impeller to take care of clearance on other side of pump case.
    ie same as this post discussing decking to reduce turbulence on block side if pump.
    so any improvement you can do should help.
    Last edited by Robo; 7th August 2015 at 11:44 AM.
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  12. #28
    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robo View Post
    Going by the pic of impeller I'd hazzard a guess of some cavitation present given the partial & uneven cleanliness of the impeller.
    wouldn't a even flow of coolant produce even deposits?.
    I think the uneven deposits are because these Jap import engines sit around for a long time.

    I gave it a quick clean with a small brass brush and the muck just fell off it.
    Trust me there's not the slightest sign of erosion.

    ...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

  13. #29
    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Also thought this might be of interest. I found this image in a thread where a guy was changing his water pump. He actually bolted a new pump onto this and is quite happy with the outcome so let's not get too worried with what we have..

    ...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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