The oil pump is just a gear driven pump that drives off the timing gears. What would you like to know?
The oil pump is just a gear driven pump that drives off the timing gears. What would you like to know?
I dont think it has anything to do with my problem I just wanted to see what they look like and I did.
I have dropped the oil and have been trying to flush out the oil galleries but am not 100% sure of what I am doing.
I've stayed away from it for a few days and will slowly start back at it again soon.
Can use diesel to flush the engine, but easier to just use one of the over the counter products. Run the engine with the old oil to warm it up, then drain. Chuck some cheap oil in along with the flush additive and idle the engine for 20-30 mins. Don't drive it or put any load on the engine. Drain again and replace the filter and fill with good oil. You will be surprised how dirty the 30min old oil will come out if it's never been flushed before.
IMO and should be taken with a grain of salt.
I've done it every oil change with the patrol, my wife's commodore and my boss 260. What have you been told to be wary of?
IMO and should be taken with a grain of salt.
I've heard this also, but if the engine is relying on gum and varnish to seal it, it really needs a rebuild. I did this on my 400000km patrol and its fine.
IMO and should be taken with a grain of salt.
Bloodyaussie (9th November 2014)
Yeh not a great deal to do with the oil pump. If you have oil one side and not the other the oil pump itself is working just fine.
Seals wil only show weakness if they are already worn. Its like the age old "synthetic oil made my seals leak". It never does, its just the molecules are smaller and more of and as such get through smaller weaknesses in a seal that mineral oil wouldn't.
Flushes (I have never used) I imagine would be a cocktail of chemicals that as a result make a much thinner oil making passing old already tired seals easier.
Bloodyaussie (9th November 2014)
First drive with turbo fitted....