Dawes valve, egr block for a dummy with a crd

[rottodiver]

Thanks rumcajs,
does it matter if the middle one is not blocked( the one that went to the actuator originally), I have looped other two.i have tried to follow Chaz's instructions but do notice the "damper" is on the vacuum pump line where as on the crd it is on the actuator line( I changed it to the vacuum pump line as per his drawing.. Is that right?

I seem to now get a max boost of 18.6 on the scan gauge( which reads 18 on my pod gauge), would that be too high or just right.

Now for adjustment of the needle, I think I got it right.... I idled the engine with it wound all the way in then as I watched the actuator arm I wound the needle out until I saw the arm drop slightly, then I wound it back in again until it was just about to hit the stop again.. Sound right?
I have notice exactly what you said, the boost does not fluctuate now it is steady, but now at 2000 rpm it sits on about 16( when doing a touch under 100 km/h).

Thanks in advance... It is a little nerve racking doing this for the first time..

Scotty

[Rumcajs]

Thanks rumcajs,
does it matter if the middle one is not blocked( the one that went to the actuator originally), I have looped other two.i have tried to follow Chaz's instructions but do notice the "damper" is on the vacuum pump line where as on the crd it is on the actuator line( I changed it to the vacuum pump line as per his drawing.. Is that right?

I'd blocked all ports on the solenoid so as not to get it filthy, you never know when you want to re use it again. The damper is the same on Di as well, when you change over to needle valve it is on the vac line.

I seem to now get a max boost of 18.6 on the scan gauge( which reads 18 on my pod gauge), would that be too high or just right.

That's perfectly OK for CrD, I get that on mine (Di)

Now for adjustment of the needle, I think I got it right.... I idled the engine with it wound all the way in then as I watched the actuator arm I wound the needle out until I saw the arm drop slightly, then I wound it back in again until it was just about to hit the stop again.. Sound right?

Yep that's your initial setting.

I have notice exactly what you said, the boost does not fluctuate now it is steady, but now at 2000 rpm it sits on about 16( when doing a touch under 100 km/h).

Do you have Dawes fitted? 16 psi at 100km/h under cruising (not under hard acceleration/uphill) is a little too high, maybe 11-13 psi is more ideal under reasonable load, you'll get better eco. I'm guessing yours is an auto by the revs@100kn/h

Now I think its time for trial and error tuning. Try open the needle valve a slightly and see what boost you'll get than.

Cheers

[rottodiver]

Rumcajs,
Thanks so much for the time you are taking with me on this...
Yes I do have the Dawes valve fitted, currently I have egr blocked Dawes valve, needle valve, 3 inch exhaust, tunit chip, provent200.

Ok I will open it up the needle valve a touch, how do I know When I have gone too far? Can I do any damage?

Scotty

[Rumcajs]

Well, you'll know alright, the boost spool up will be slower and car sluggish/slower to accelerate. No real damage from slower spool up. You need to do it in small increments. Did you observe spool up rate under partial load/accelerator pedal? So boost bellow 6 psi under 1500 RPM, 10 psi under 2000 RPM etc. Those are general rules for Di. For CrD it might be slightly higher.
CrDs can easily spike to 20 psi under full load (over 2500 RPM) with no issues apart from possible reliability. Don't forget that you might have to reign in the max boost with Dawes as well. Its a balancing act now to try finding a sweet spot between power and eco and safety.

Cheers

[rottodiver]

Yeah at 1500 rpm I was getting about 7... I am thinking I am getting close then, if I wound it out slightly wouldnt that raise my 2000 rpm boost?

Scotty

[Rumcajs]

Yeah at 1500 rpm I was getting about 7... I am thinking I am getting close then, if I wound it out slightly wouldnt that raise my 2000 rpm boost?

Scotty

No, wounding it out aka opening it will reduce spool rate which slows down the turbo response which lowers down the boost. Wounding it in aka closing it makes it spool up faster with higher boost at lower RPM that gives more power (better response) but can be more dangerous to the turbo/motor.
Cheers

[rottodiver]

Awesome... That is my next plan then.... Will be my first job in the morning,
Thanks again, it is really appreciated...

Scotty

[Rumcajs]

Look you can do an experiment where you fully close the valve (engine can handle that for limited time) to see what figures you'll get so you can establish your max baseline and than start scaling back to what you feel is a right balance between power, eco and safety...
If yours in an automatic it will be keeping up higher boost across gear changes which can lead to higher boost levels and much quicker spool up rate. So in that case you might need to get Dawes valve adjustment to reflect on that too (reducing the max boost level).

Cheers

[rottodiver]

Yes it is an auto....

[rottodiver]

I might adjust the Dawes slightly, I have got that pretty sussed now... That also doesn't need much adjustment..
Scotty