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Thread: Pertronix - Hall Effect Vs Lobe Sensor what is the difference?

  1. #1
    ckh
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    Pertronix - Hall Effect Vs Lobe Sensor what is the difference?

    I just bought a set up off ebay it says "GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL WITH TB42 ENGINE" LS for lob sensing but further inb the description it says "Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out" it doesnt say anything about having to grinf the distributor shaft down, saw a post on another site saying "1762 (so I'm assuming it's not lobe sensing) and says the instructions that cam with that say "distributor must be removed from the car and a flange on the distributor shaft has to be Machined to 0.624 of an Inch"

    Have I bought a lob sensing one as I hear they are not as reliably as the Hall effect type?

    Also bought the Flame-ThrowerŪ 40,000 volt coil they recommend to go with the ignightor.. I've read to check the rivies are right as its a manufacturing oversight, but bottom line is have I bought the right one, and what is the difference between hall effect and lob sensing, as i said in the ebay description its says its both!!!!!

  2. #2
    ckh
    Guest
    Got both the ignigtor and flame thrower coil for 160 delivered from the USA...

  3. #3
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    The hall effect set up usually has an insert that sits under the rotor button after removing the points. The lobe sensor set up usually still uses the points as a switch. I haven't seen a lobe sensing set up for years because although they only have minimal current passing through the points (and they wont burn out) you still get wear on the rubbing block and the points will still need to be adjusted occasionally. With the hall effect sensor - once it is set up there is no wear and it should never need adjustment. Hope this helps.

  4. #4
    ckh
    Guest
    This is the exact one I bought on ebay, like i says in one section it says lobe sensing in another hall effect, says not grinding necessary and nevery needs replacing...
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200667065...ht_2073wt_1397

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200667065...ht_2073wt_1397


    YOU ARE GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL WITH TB42 ENGINE,ALSO FITS THE FORD MAVERICK WITH THE TB42.THIS WORKS WITH THE GAS OR LP SUPPLIED ENGINES.THE PERTRONIX IGNITOR WILL BE SHIPPING FROM THE USA,AIRMAIL AND WILL TAKE UP TO 10 DAYS.YOU WILL BE SUPPLIED WITH A USPS.COM CUSTOMS # UPON PURCHASE.IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS,LET ME KNOW THRU EMAIL. YOU WILL SAVE YOU MUCH MONEY ON THIS PURCHASE.CHECK OUT OUR FEEDBACK THANKS MATT


    VERY EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS AND VERY EASY TO INSTALL.NO NEED TO GRIND DOWN YOUR DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT TO MAKE THE OLD STYLE IGNITOR FIT AS WE SELL THE NEW IMPROVED VERSION.




    CHECK OUT OUR FEEDBACK TO AUSTRALIA.WE SHIP QUICK AND THE BEST PRICE AROUND





    For over thirty years, the Ignitor has proven itself in applications ranging from race cars to tractors. The Ignitor replaces breaker point and troublesome factory electronic ignitions with a dependable, self contained and maintenance free electronic ignition system. The Ignitor has been called the "stealth" ignition because of its quick installation and nearly undetectable presence under your distributor cap.



    Specifications

    Operating Voltage: 8-V to 16-V DC
    Temperature Range: -50 to 300F
    RPM Range: 0 to 15,000 RPM
    12-V NEG Ground (some 6-V NEG, 6 & 12-V POS ground kits available)
    System is designed for use with most point-type coils, optimal performance achieved when used with our Flame-ThrowerŪ 40,000 volt coil.
    Works great in stock point-type distributors as a trigger for multi-spark CD ignitions, eliminating the need for expensive aftermarket distributors.
    No complicated wiring makes installation easy.
    A solid-state electronic ignition system. "Never change points again!"




    Delivers twice the voltage to the spark plugs, increasing horsepower, fuel economy, and spark plug life.
    2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
    Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out.
    Epoxy molding makes our module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
    Fits entirely inside the distributor.
    No "black box to clutter the engine compartment.
    Stable timing ...no need for any adjustments.
    Will trigger most multi-spark CD ignitions.
    Use with Flame-ThrowerŪ 40,000 volt coil for optimal performance.
    Available for 6 and 12-volt negative and positive ground systems.
    Legal in all 50 states and Canada (C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-57-2).
    Guaranteed for 30 months... We Stand Behind It!

  5. #5
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    Sounds like it is the type where the magnets sit under the rotor button and the hall effect device fits where the points used to be.

  6. #6
    Expert Irvs's Avatar
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    Upload a photo of the Box, Parts you have and the instructions. I got the Ignitor 2 and Flamethrower 2 which is a Hall Effect setup and I had my Fitter and Turner mate turn the shaft down for me, some people use a grinder, could use a a file and a drill press if you where careful enough.

    Also you don't have to take the Dissy out of the car, you can pull it apart while in the bay and still mounted but you have to be aware of which way the rotor button was facing.

    To disassemble the Dissy you take off the dissy cap leaving leads on it and cable tie out of the way, then mark which direction the rotor button is pointing on the housing of the dissy, remove rotor button and dust cap, you will see the points and condenser that sits on the side of the dissy, remove all the screws to pull out points and condenser (all screws except 2 that hold down the breaker plate) for the Lobe Sensing type, for the Hall Effect type you need to remove the dissy shaft, to remove the shaft you need to take out the extra two screws holding down the breaker plate and remove the circlip on the vacuum advance (be careful it doesn't go missing), remove the vacuum advance and the screw that's down the centre of the dissy shaft, lift out the breaker plate and you will see the two springs with the govenor weights on them, the shaft just slots in on two little studs and should slide out, take out the shaft machine it down and replace in opposite order repacking with high temp grease, on the position the points used to sit roughly you will put the ignitor and on the shaft you will put the magnet ring on first with the hexagonal internal diameter facing up, then the white spacing ring on top, should all just sit below the top of the rotor button.

    Hope this helps

    Irvs
    1990 Ford Maverick, 4.2 Carby, 2" SL, 2" BL, Dual Batts, 33" Maxxis Big Horns

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Irvs For This Useful Post:

    patch697 (15th September 2012)

  8. #7
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    WOW !!! The one I had years ago (it was a Bosch brand) just fitted in without doing anything to the shaft. It was a different engine though. Sounds like a lot of work.

  9. #8
    Expert Irvs's Avatar
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    Sounds like it but it really isn't, if you have the tools to grind it down the whole job should take an hour including the wiring
    1990 Ford Maverick, 4.2 Carby, 2" SL, 2" BL, Dual Batts, 33" Maxxis Big Horns

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Irvs For This Useful Post:

    patch697 (15th September 2012)

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irvs View Post
    Sounds like it but it really isn't, if you have the tools to grind it down the whole job should take an hour including the wiring
    X2....... Follow Irvs's instructions posted above... They're pretty much spot on & once you've had a good look you'll get a good idea of whats bean said & be able to follow them easily.

  12. #10
    ckh
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    Looking at the picture in the ebay add, there is a magnet which goes over the distrubutor shaft, and in the descriptin it says no wear on parts...

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