Stupid Plastic Radiator

[Spectrum250]

Only trouble with aluminium radiators is if you get stray current floating around it will chew your radiator out in a very short time.

[da' maverick]

can you get anodes for them? nice bling daren.

[xtreme patrol]

The origanal radiator has a aluminium core and it lasted 300k with no worrys it was only the plastic that shat it self.
But will check with a multimeter anyway. I think you can get some stuff to put in them to take the charge out

[outbackjack]

Any Updates? Has it lasted? I am looking to replace my radiator in the ZD Patrol, so confusing which to go for. Full Alloy, Orginal, Brass/copper

[xtreme patrol]

Any Updates? Has it lasted? I am looking to replace my radiator in the ZD Patrol, so confusing which to go for. Full Alloy, Orginal, Brass/copper

No problems at all I have towed a fully loaded camper trailer up a massive hill north of dargo on a 40 degree day and the needle didn't move.

[outbackjack]

Ok thanks. I would like the alloy one, but some people say dont buy the cheap Ebay ones. Like everything I guess, some good some bad.

[xtreme patrol]

Ok thanks. I would like the alloy one, but some people say dont buy the cheap Ebay ones. Like everything I guess, some good some bad.

Yeah you got to roll the dice and sometimes you win sometimes you lose.

Heres some info i came across from http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/ALUMRAD.htm


Aluminium Radiator cores with plastic tanks have been fitted to most European and Japanese cars since the early eighties with the Holden Commodore changing in 1989 and Ford Falcon in 1998. Toyota was the main Japanese manufacturer to resist change but even the Landcruiser is now alloy/plastic. In 1998, 97% of new vehicles registered in Australia have an aluminium core fitted.
In broad terns of heat conducting properties, copper is a little better than aluminium, brass is noticeably worse, BUT lead is a shocker. A copper/brass radiator has brass tubes and copper fins with solder joining these together. Solder is approx.70% lead, so this is where their inefficiency to aluminium lies. An aluminium radiator cannot only dissipate more BTU's of total heat, but also quicker. I have seen data logging results of a comparison between a copper/ brass and an aluminium radiator of similar dimensions, fitted to the same drag car with the water temp. graph being slower to rise, not as high a peak and also, started dropping as soon as the driver got off the throttle for the aluminium, whereas the other radiator actually kept increasing a little, before dropping.
When Nissan Aust. tested the two different radiators, they found a copper/brass core deteriorated exponentially quicker than aluminium, meaning its cooling rate was much less again after 4 years of service.
A new air conditioned 3.0 litter, 6 cyl. VL Commodore came out of the factory with a 3 row, 50mm thick copper brass core. The next model Commodore, an air conditioned 3.8 litter,V 6 cyl. VN came out of the factory with a single row of tubes, 29mm. thick aluminium core, even though it was more powerful. a little heavier and with a little smaller grille opening! Nearly the same for Mazda RX7 rotaries, their 3 row 50mm copper brass core was replaced by a 2 row 37mm. aluminium core by the factory. These are real world examples of an aluminum cores advantage.

Now the downside
If an aluminium radiator is looked after properly, it will last at least twice as long as a copper/brass unit and without anywhere near as much continual loss of performance as a copper/brass unit suffers. If it is totally abused, it can also be rendered unserviceable 283 times quicker than a copper/brass unit, so it really pays to look after them!!! It is a simple matter of not mixing different brands/types of inhibitors, replacing inhibitor when due and having a stray current test performed every 12 months or each time panel beating or electrical components are fitted. Plastic tanks are usually the first thing to go, so the cooler the system runs, the longer they will last.

[outbackjack]

This is interesting. Looks Alloy might be the way to go. I have heard some bad reports on PWR, not sure of others

[putin]

hello, I like it!! is it easy to replace? did you pull off the fan before? I'd like to do the same job because I have exactly the same problem, do I need some special tools? any suggestion is welcome, I'm not so expert. ta

[brucemacca]

Thanks for the info guys, looks like that is the fix for my little overheating problem.