Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

Double-side-tape the camera onto the pod and drive it around, do some backups into tight spots, shed, around town, etc. until you are happy with the positioning/view angle, etc.
Then you drill the screw holes, glue the camera with that black windscreen PU/rubber glue + the screws. Let the screws go through the PU glue, so it will work as a thread lock as well.

I checked the Wolfpro site and it is a very nice unit indeed. Just camera, no carplay/android auto BS to make the unit become obsolete after 6 months of unwanted "upgrades". Just didn't like that the front camera is part of the mirror mounted screen. I'd like to find one where the front camera is double-side-taped to the windscreen and some sort of display solution for the rear camera that I could use as a backup camera when needed, as I'd like to keep using the OEM mirror for regular driving.

A small display that could fit the GU4 lift door cubby on the top of the dash would be nice.

The rear camera power can be triggered off the power wire at the rear camera. I have mine set up so it is available all the time - its a simple tap the screen to toggle between front only, rear only or split front and rear, also allows for image inversion if the mounting does not suit, has a nice image tilt adjustment as well, more or less like a rear view mirror so you can rotate the view to suit how close to the car you want - unsure if it goes side to side though - have not played with it. The operator manual is pretty brief which I find a bit annoying. The screws I am taking about are the actual camera head mounts to the bracket - they look like M2 or similar and the bracket is 0.5mm thick - its cable tied via the power and AV cord so it wont get lost if it comes adrift, but I think this wont stand up to Aussie corrugated roads.

[PeeBee]

Took the barge out today for a 300klm run and ran just like it was before it got a tank of muddy water. Couple of odd diesel spots on the driveway, something not tightened up, another quest to resolve, but happy I am out of the woods.

[PeeBee]

Fixed the second last hydraulic hose leak, leaving the last one for a new day - absolute mongrel of spot to reach it. Luckily the leaks I repaired all remain intact and no drips.

Noticed I have a pressure spike when operating the Winchmax 20,000lb without load - so rang the Australian Agent, talked it thru, stated its not a warranty call, just need to understand if the spool could be sticking. Anyway, he requested a condition report so he could send it off to the Techs in the UK. Meanwhile, he found a new DCV - spare/excess to requirements - and is sending it to me free, including shipping - what an amazing service, highly recommend them, they sell electric and hydraulic winches

The Redarc radiator low level sensor has been dinging off intermittently, found it was leaking at the thread - so out it came, resealed with some Pirtek Teflon sealer, and filled back up, will see how that goes.

[mudski]

The Redarc radiator low level sensor has been dinging off intermittently, found it was leaking at the thread - so out it came, resealed with some Pirtek Teflon sealer, and filled back up, will see how that goes.

My Redarc low water sensor would also randomly go off. I check the coolant, all good. I bleed the system out again, no bubbles, no leak nothing. In the end i replaced the fitting/ clip on the end of the wire going to the sensor with a modified female spade terminal, even though it looked clean. The sensor remains quiet now. Dunno how or why, but its fixed.....

[PeeBee]

My Redarc low water sensor would also randomly go off. I check the coolant, all good. I bleed the system out again, no bubbles, no leak nothing. In the end i replaced the fitting/ clip on the end of the wire going to the sensor with a modified female spade terminal, even though it looked clean. The sensor remains quiet now. Dunno how or why, but its fixed.....

I know the fitting, I bought a new sender unit when I did the rebuild. Its sitting tight on the peg. The water level was down as when I removed the fitting , lost maybe 0.5 L of fluid and I have the low level 30mm from top of the core - its a cross flow style. Anyway, it goes off off road especially after and during hillclimbs, given up trying to bleed this pig.

[mudski]

I know the fitting, I bought a new sender unit when I did the rebuild. Its sitting tight on the peg. The water level was down as when I removed the fitting , lost maybe 0.5 L of fluid and I have the low level 30mm from top of the core - its a cross flow style. Anyway, it goes off off road especially after and during hillclimbs, given up trying to bleed this pig.

Yep the fitting was tight on mine too, but i had run out of ideas and this seemed to fix it. Mine rarely went off during hill climbs or off roading, it would just randomly go off. Making me think it wasn't just low coolant.

[PeeBee]

Another day of bee-stinging enlightenment. Hydraulics this time.

I am running the same 12V DCV front and rear. I deliberately swapped the front dcv so I had parts commonality and flowrate the same.

So I plumbed the front and rear up to the nameplate on top of the valves. On firing up the system, the 'at idle' system pressure for the front was 200psi and the rear 2000psi, and going over the pressure relief valve. Initially thought I had a check valve on the return line back to front, nope all good. Then I thought I had a stuck spool.

Made contact with the winchmax agent and he sent me out a replacement valve. The dcv to mount block can only be configured one way as the mounting holes are offset. So, after struggling in the half dark trying to swap the dcv over, without effect as the mount holes would not line up - see 'offset holes above'. So, I turned the valve around to line up the holes, only to find the PT and AB ports are now opposite to whats on the tin plate, so when I select this flow to the winch it pushes oil into a dead end and relieves over the pressure relief, and also explains why the winch is rotating opposite direction to the hand controller and more importantly why the pressure drops to circa 300psi once a forward or rev direction is selected.
The dcv to baseplate have never been seperated on either valve until now, so seems like a simple arse backwards fixed nameplate was the problem all along.

Further to this, the replacement dcv valve body thickness is machined differently and so the screws are now 4mm too long, they bottom out before clamping down the dcv to the valve block - m4 x /// or similar - Fuck me this is getting tiring. Anyway, I now have a bigger job to do with swapping the hoses around - it was a bastard to build with the body off, far worse now having to work in a shoebox size cavity. NOT happy.

[PeeBee]

Hre appears to be the root of the problem. I followed the labelling on the dcv and the rivetted label appears to be 180 deg out of sync with the valve internals.Valve stuff up.jpg

the valve schematic on the left is the original valve installed and plumbed up. It presented with high pressure supposedly on open center, however if you look at the valve on the right, the replacement, its porting is 180 deg different, hence the P 'pressure port' and T tank ports are actually the A and B ports which should be going to the winch motor. What is now apparent is that I have hooked the hoses to what I thought were the press and tank return lines, into the dead end ports and its given rise to the high pressure scenario. Once you activate the dcv, the pressure drops as expected as its opened the flow, but the direction of rotation is reverse also.
Its a right PIA, as the 4 hoses will need to be remade as they are custom lengths to suit the port locations.

Further to this, the front winch dcv is correctly plumbed so its looking like a manufacturing fault.

[PeeBee]

Sorted out the arse about DCV this arvo, another 3 hrs of finger cramping back busting pleasure! Tomorrow with luck I will sort out the final hose leak. If I have time, will add a second filter to the fuel line

[PeeBee]

Last hydraulic fitting fixed, I hope! Leaving everything for a week to totally harden then should be sorted. Tidied up a couple of lingering issues, pulled the pass rear door apart to resolve a sticky locking mechanism, had a quick look at how to mount the 12v Marine oven into the Pod, tight but possible, just not sure how much heat radiates off the outer skin, probably needs an air gap and insulation. Weeping leak on radiator, bee sting 54,007

Additional filter will have to wait, it's a very tight area down the back of the car and no room under the bonnet