Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

Feedback from ARB regards the shockers contacting the bump stop plate has been totally fair and supportive. Seems there is a note, admittedly in an obscure sequence of the instructions, to trim the bump stop plate if it looks like it will foul. So, on that basis, the error is mine, which I accept. Its been a really positive exchange with ARB Warranty at Kilsyth and the outcome is they will take the shockers back, rebuild them from their stock of spares - shockers are actually built in the USA, then return them to new. They will warrant the shockers as they stand for the full 3 yrs in recognition the instructions are not that intuitive. I am very impressed. At this time I have elected to drive it a bit further with the 'cosmetic damage' and then in the new year pull them off and get them rebuilt - its the bottom adjustment knob that has contacted the bump stop and become 'highly modified'. The mounting location of the remote reservoir is a bastard and another installation error I made with installing with the body 'off', then removal is difficult.
I was under the car today and shocker looking at the actual assy, think the issue is the shockers are too long for my suspension travel. I purchased the full F/R set during Covid and 4" lift was all they had left, so I made the decision to buy these - in hindsight 3" would have been better as the body is shorter - hence they probably would not have contacted the bump stops anyway.
I think I will have a pragmatic conversation with the warranty department, get the 4" rears rebuilt and buy a new set of 3" for the rear. I will then sell then 4" units. The ride is bloody good in all honesty, however the shorter body of the 3" will keep it away from the trimmed bump stops and the rear brake lines, so win win. ARB remain a trusted supplier in my mind.

[PeeBee]

Spoke with ARB today about the option of 3" BP51's - they dont make them. Only avail in 2" lift for road use and 4" lift for offroad use. I have the open and closed eye centres and will see if the 2" will work. The only issue with this setup is the rubbers on the shocker eyes are rooted after 4000klm. I have ordered 2 sets for the lower eyes in the rear but really they should last longer than that. Not a big cost, $13/set, its more the poor performance, so every 4000klm they need replacing - not great.

[PeeBee]

I installed the replacement springs with 30mm rubber spring hats and its lifted the car 25mm, sitting level. I filled up the rear tank and the height went down 5mm on both sides, so with the water tank full I am expecting a drop of maybe 8mm total, no airbags. It rides well, still a touch floaty but nothing like the setup with the airbags in play. Wire diameter increase from 19mm to 22mm, same spring height, but gone from 400kg constant to 250-400 variable.

Took the car out for a spin in the relative heat the other day to get some better numbers on the revised water cooling circuits.

Ambient air Temp 35Deg C, air temp post the supercharger , into the engine is around 55 degC, but it will rise a bit more I suspect.
Water temp cooling the barrel w2A sits around 6-8 degC. I dont have a temp gauge post the barrel W2A, will consider adding to see the effect the interchiller is having on the inlet airstream. The radiators mounted on the roofrack are doing a good job and dont put the heatload into the engine radiator.

[PeeBee]

More dicking around under the car today, finished the insulation on the coolant hoses, and restored/relocated the cruise control sensors to the hand brake drum instead of the tailshaft - now have to do the set up and good to go. The catchcan arrived today, procrastinating where it can be squeezed in - need to eliminate the oil getting onto the w2a coil inside the inlet manifold.

Noticed or convinced myself the in-line w2a is restricting flow to the s/c, as its a 5" barrel with 3" inlet/outlets, could not buy or convince anyone on line to make one with 4" connections, so bought another one today, along with some 4" ally tube. I am going to blanch the 4" tune onto the reducing cone so I will have 4" in and out and a nice smooth transition into the s/c inlet at 3.5", handled with a silicone reducing 45 deg elbow.

Looking for a welder now who can do the ally welding, pretty straight forward with the right gear and expertise.

[mudski]

What brand cruise control are you running Phil?

[PeeBee]

What brand cruise control are you running Phil?

I am running the Command AP 60B setup. Its one of the few that run off magnets and vacuum actuation. There is a different model, called an AP500 I think that communicates with an ecu thats in the petrol GQ's but the 2.8TD does not have that platform - apparently there is something in the 4.2TD that does.

I had the cruise control added during the conversion but managed to mangle the drive cable up when I lost a belt. From there it wasn't repairable, so I bought another unit and its installed, just at the commissioning stage now.

[PeeBee]

THe replacement barrel W2A unit arrived, so after getting a solid recommendation from @MB, headed down to a shop in Pakenham, and thye cut and blanched the 4" inlet and outlet to the 5" x 8" unit, essentially were waiting for me to arrive, unbelievable service, they shifted a job around to fit me in. Next Level Welding & Fabrication, MS/SS/Aluminum, highly recommended.Insulated modifed W2A 3.jpgModified barrel W2A 1.jpgW2A Modified 2.jpg
Will swap it over in the new year, last of the shopping for a while I hope!

[PeeBee]

Fitted the new cooler today, took all of 30mins. Engine even sounded different, back to the old sucking/howling noise out of the snorkle that it had before and had disappeared with the chocked off unit. Tomorrow, maybe the lower bushes on the BP51's that only lasted 4000klm - ARB shrugged they shoulders, no comment - better not be a repeated event is all I can say. Thy are not expensive at $13 each, its just they are natural rubber and very deformable.

[MudRunnerTD]

We cant leave you unattended in your shed you mad bugger. lol

The lower bump stop plate on the back diff is savage. I also lost a pair of shocks finding that out too. But check your pinion angle mate and make sure you have a good angle. The plate arc has moved at you lifted it and the diff rolled back and caused the impact. I cut min off and welded a new block on top of the plate to catch the bump stops.

If you are running 80 Bumps then dont worry about only having 20mm between bump and plate, the bump stop will compress to almost nothing. 20mm to 30mm from the 150mm length it is. It will take a Lot of compression. The marketing suggests they compress to like 100mm but i have seen some in a press and they went a lot more than that. I jsut spent 20 minutes looking for a photo from back in the day of a bump stop compressed. but couldn't find it but found a couple of others for interest. Note that i cut the front off the bump plate. went bush and flexed up and then climbed under to take a look and was gobsmacked that the bumps completely missed the plates. I have not welded box section to to the top of my plates to give the bumps something to impact with.

Attachment 88463

Your shock length open and compressed is far more important than if its a 2" shock or a 4" shock. You really want tot know that if the shock is fully compressed by the car that it doesnt bottom out and the existing bump stop does its bloody job. If the shock can Bottom Out on its internal Bump stop t si too long and you will blow it up. You mention that you have a new coil in the rear that is a 22mm wire. Measure the height of the shock Out of the car (the spring cant be any Longer than it is out of the car.) your full open length needs to be That long. any longer and you need spring retainers, if you have them that you have say another 50mm or more and the droop is the measurement of the open shock.

Count the number of coils in the shock, time by 22mm. The Spring in Full compressions cant be any shorter than that. Your spring is not designed to be fulling compressed though or you risk sheering the spring steal. but honestly get your head around the Fully Compressed length between the shock mounts and you want your closed shock length to be shorter than that. If the closed and open lengths are within the range of your articulation then your shocks are teh right length mate.

Id be surprised if you are running 4" lifted sprigs that a 2" shock will be suitable. Basically if you are running a 2" shock in this set up then the Shock is what will control your articulation. Measure the distance between your upper and lower shock mounts when the car is sitting level. You really want that length to be the middle of the Open and Closed length of the shock fitted. If at ride height you only have another 50mmto the full open length of the shock then thats horrible. Anything other than taking those actual measurements is guessing mate.

I didnt realise you were going to run your heat exchangers on the roof. How did you get the plumbing up there mate? is that in this thread somewhere and im being slack?

[PeeBee]

Thanks Daz,
I am staying with the 4" shocks, still to absolutely guarantee the shocker cant hit the brake line. I am yet to check the pinion angle, @MB pointed this out also, need to have a look, but now have full fuel tank and wanting to add the full water tank to ensure its sitting where it needs to be - eyeballing it the angle to tailshaft looks pretty good - wont hurt to have another look.

regards the heat exchanger pages - go back a couple - its all there. Cooling is now spectacular, holding zero from the interchiller loo and only 10 deg rise on the roofrack, happy days, but more to check