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Thread: Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

  1. #611
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    Got the barge out of the garage finally today, few stats. Dis a 200klm run, highway mostly, few dirt roads.
    Carter Black Lift pump 10psi all day measured pre the injection pump
    Fuel consumption 17L/100 @100kphr, 19L/100 @110kph
    Rpm at 100kphr 1650, @110, 1800
    Oil pressure cruising 20psi
    Air in temp 21degC, air out post i/c 75degC
    Diesel fuel temp 25degC
    EGT's cruising 280, never over 400DegC
    Lost a pass side window wind deflector, bumped the thing yesterday and broke the seal, so wind tore it off as punishment.
    No rattles or smoke anywhere, drove really well. Need some more miles and a weekend away to sort the packing, getting there.

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  3. #612
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    I hope those jerrys have a good seal on them. Having a diesel smell in the cab will be sickening. Even spilling a small amount on the outside of the can will be enough to make one ill from the smell it will give off. I'd be taking some baby wipes or something to give them a good wipe down.

    Its good to see all is going well so far too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    I hope those jerrys have a good seal on them. Having a diesel smell in the cab will be sickening. Even spilling a small amount on the outside of the can will be enough to make one ill from the smell it will give off. I'd be taking some baby wipes or something to give them a good wipe down.

    Its good to see all is going well so far too.
    Thanks Mark, yes its a problem potentially, they may end up in the pod, where they will fit, just trying to get the weight over the top or in front of the rear wheels. I could put them on the roof, but again another couple of issues generated. Finally I can see the results, yesterdays run whilst only 200klm was enough time to settle anything down and find what is going to catch fire. The rear springs are perhaps my lingering issue, need to roll the car over my caravan scales and see what is sitting over the rear axle first. I have a stiffener channel already fabricated for the rear diff housing that will actually work, so might have to weld that in place as a security measure.

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    Is there anywhere that sells replacement jerry can seals that you know of? I may just head to Clarke rubber and make a few instead if I cant buy direct - good pick up

    Never mind, bought 3 packs of 5 seals from 3 different vendors to ensure they get here on time, $3 each, happy days
    Last edited by PeeBee; 9th September 2024 at 05:57 PM.

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    Is there anywhere that sells replacement jerry can seals that you know of? I may just head to Clarke rubber and make a few instead if I cant buy direct - good pick up

    Never mind, bought 3 packs of 5 seals from 3 different vendors to ensure they get here on time, $3 each, happy days
    If they don't arrive in time, maybe those sheets of cork for gaskets, from supacheap might suffice.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    If they don't arrive in time, maybe those sheets of cork for gaskets, from supacheap might suffice.
    They also sell the seals - but $14 for a 3 pack is a bit stiff, but cheap enough if you need them in a hurry.

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    PeeBee (10th September 2024)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brissieboy View Post
    They also sell the seals - but $14 for a 3 pack is a bit stiff, but cheap enough if you need them in a hurry.
    I bought 3 packs of 5 from 3 vendors, first set arrived today, have a few spares now, fitted them this arvo, good quality fit and nice and fat for a good seal.

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    I bought 3 packs of 5 from 3 vendors, first set arrived today, have a few spares now, fitted them this arvo, good quality fit and nice and fat for a good seal.
    Maybe fill the cans and do a test run Phil before venturing off? Just to be sure.

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    OK, went out today to put some more miles on the build before the Madigan trip, and encountered what appears to be a repeated issue with the rear wheels on the GQ and GU, especially with alloy wheels.

    I entered a round about at 50khr and the drivers side rear just decided to leave the chat, no warning, just fell off. I managed to pull the car mostly off the road but not before destroying a brand new disk from the Willwood Brake upgrade. Rang @MB for some assistance and he dropped everything and came across, but in the end the solution was to replace the studs and get it back on the road to see if it needed a flatbed trip or could drive home. Luckily it all came apart and went back together and drives fine, even with the flat edge on the disk. I rang Castlemaine Rod Shop ad was able to buy just a single disk which I will have monday. Could have been a lot worse, mangled the new tray guard but didnt affect the capliper which would be a pricey item.

    So, were the nuts tight or too tight and over stressed the studs, was the damage to the studs done when the new studs were added to the new disks, who knows. What I can say with some certainty is the nuts dont look like they were loose as I have seen this before and typically the rim holes get elongated and mangled - the rim stud holes are perfectly untouched. Also all studs exploded at the same time, and I picked them up from the roundabout all within a 3 m circle. I did however do a complete check of the pass side nuts and 3 were not tight, but they were still firm.

    Right now the jury is out. I did have the rear wheels off recently when playing with the springs and airbgs, so maybe they were nt tightened correctly or they were buggered from over tensioning and just waiting to fail. One thing is for sure, no more rattle guns, just torque wrench and I think perhaps locktite on the thread as well, although the failure point on all 6 studs is identical, right at the start of the threaded portion of the stud, identical.Lost wheel 4.jpgLost wheel 5.jpgLost wheel 3.jpgLost wheel 2.jpgLost wheel 1.jpg


    SO CHECK YA NUTS.

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  19. #620
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    This is the way I was taught when I got my first car:
    After the wheels have been off, always mount the rim on the studs and start the nuts manually.
    If using a rattle gun, only use it to do the nuts up loosely. Wriggle the wheel as you seat the nuts by hand.
    Use a torque wrench set to 90 ftlbs (for the Patrol, or to vehicle spec.)
    Tighten the nuts in a star pattern.
    Drive vehicle a couple of ks then check the nuts again.

    I also do that last step after a mechanic or tyre shop has taken the wheels off.

    It is tedious, I know, but I haven't lost a single wheel, in 40 years on the road. Touch wood.

    I have had a cheap Chinese rim come loose ass the steel was very soft. The dealer I bought the car from had fitted the piece of crap as a spare.
    Last edited by mudnut; 12th September 2024 at 06:14 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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