Stutter and shutdown.

[Steve0.adams]

Went to work on my rig this afternoon. Now I'm getting the water in fuel filter light on the dash. I know it says in the manual to not continue driving when the light pops on. But doesn't shut it down?

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[BrazilianY60]

You would have to drain the water captured at the fuel filter. If you did and it is still on, the wire or the sensor could be shorted to ground.

[BrazilianY60]

You changed lever positions and gears were not changed? The only thing I can imagine for such a symptom would be the shift lever itself, broken below the pivot ball.

Oh, maybe not... if the clutch slave fails and get stuck, the clutch would stay released, no power to the transmission and you would be able to switch through gears to no result.

Nevermind this, I was thinking manual transmission.

[Steve0.adams]

Not having any luck. I had to tow it back to my house and for the life of me I can't get it started again.

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[mihit]

Not having any luck. I had to tow it back to my house and for the life of me I can't get it started again.

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Oh bugger!

As above I'd check for water in the diesel filter... there's a drain at the bottom.
Then bleed the fuel system all again.

A compression/ leakdown test will show up any problems with head gasket and piston rings, but I think that's unlikely.

Next would be set the valves...they do wear. I'm not sure how far out they'd have to be for a no-start though.

Again, check the fuel solenoid at the injector pump. You can hotwire this if needed.
Put a hot wire to the spade lug and feel for a "click" - then make sure the OEM wiring has voltage when the key is "ON"
When cranking you should be seeing a good squirt of diesel at the injector nuts when they're loosened slightly.

Beyond that unfortunately sounds like computer/auto issue which is where I run out of knowledge :/

[Steve0.adams]

Oh bugger!

As above I'd check for water in the diesel filter... there's a drain at the bottom.
Then bleed the fuel system all again.

A compression/ leakdown test will show up any problems with head gasket and piston rings, but I think that's unlikely.

Next would be set the valves...they do wear. I'm not sure how far out they'd have to be for a no-start though.

Again, check the fuel solenoid at the injector pump. You can hotwire this if needed.
Put a hot wire to the spade lug and feel for a "click" - then make sure the OEM wiring has voltage when the key is "ON"
When cranking you should be seeing a good squirt of diesel at the injector nuts when they're loosened slightly.

Beyond that unfortunately sounds like computer/auto issue which is where I run out of knowledge :/

Thanks for the info.

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[Steve0.adams]

It's alive!!!! Well it turns out that the water drain valve was the culprit. For the no start. When I got the water in the fuel filter light, I drained as required. Tightened the valve back up primed and primed again. But turns out that valve wasn't tight enough so everytime I tried to turn the vehicle on either the fuel was squirting out the valve or air was getting sucked up. Either way it caused air in the lines which caused it not to start. I am however still having random low rpm (shuddering) issues. When I got the go pedal to keep it from stalling, the rpm's go up but very delayed. I can set the choke(locking accelerator knob)to keep it running and then the rpm's climb. In addition to my existing issues. My ignition decided it didn't want to give my key back. Still trying to figure that one out.

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[Plasnart]

It's alive!!!! Well it turns out that the water drain valve was the culprit. For the no start. When I got the water in the fuel filter light, I drained as required. Tightened the valve back up primed and primed again. But turns out that valve wasn't tight enough so everytime I tried to turn the vehicle on either the fuel was squirting out the valve or air was getting sucked up. Either way it caused air in the lines which caused it not to start. I am however still having random low rpm (shuddering) issues. When I got the go pedal to keep it from stalling, the rpm's go up but very delayed. I can set the choke(locking accelerator knob)to keep it running and then the rpm's climb. In addition to my existing issues. My ignition decided it didn't want to give my key back. Still trying to figure that one out.

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Great to hear Steve. As for the key, sounds like your barrel pins or key are worn (or probably both). Been there done that myself in a daily drive road vehicle. Just stump up for a locksmith, couple of hundred bucks and you will be as good as new. Much better than being stranded out in the bush. Mine was getting hard to turn the key.
It kept locking in the barrell. It would only intermittently turn but would slide in and out. Sounds different but similar to your issue.

[Steve0.adams]

Turns out, it was due to my trouble shooting of the auto transmission. I adjusted the gear selector linkage to align the gear shift handle better to the detents in each range. Got it right in the mark. But it is 30 years old. So it was hitting each gear detent spot on. But park is slightly off so the button that allows you to change into drive and reverse etc. Didn't pop out. Which in turn made it seem like I wasn't in park, not allowing the ignition to release the key. A safety feature so your car doesn't roll away. Lol

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[Steve0.adams]

After adjusting the shifter linkage and changing the tranny fluid. The beast is up and driving. I did run some liquimoly diesel purge through and initially it was struggling with rough/low idle. But seems to have cleared up. I feel like I didn't really do anything and the issues are gone. But feel like they might be lurking right around the corner.

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