What did you do to your Patrol today!

[Hodge]

Drove it to work.
This is how many k’s the Patrol has done since the 1st of January this year.
Including our summer trip to Omeo > Bright > Mansfield then home.
Attachment 84532


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Are you warming it up for the next few weeks ?


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[mudski]

Are you warming it up for the next few weeks ?


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Trying to use the old fuel in it really. Probably a bit stale by now.

[Hodge]

Trying to use the old fuel in it really. Probably a bit stale by now.

Fuel doctor. Stabilises it and cleans it.
Plus a quick run up the high country will clean it up good and proper sometime soon. .

Shackles and chains come off tomorrow.

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[PureCaboose]

Mounting screws for the front grill to replace the cable ties.
New alternator, 100amp.
removed the front bar and remounted winch after servicing

now I need to fix the 32-year-old wiring that is now corroding rapidly and falling apart, the copper is old, crusty and prone to snap if you look at it.

managed to snap a few plastic connectors along the way, so more work now on the list than I crossed off. sigh

Gave up for the day, made some toast.

[MB]

Charged my telephony keeping warm in a SWB TB45NA Maverick via a cigarette lighter USB modification, sweet & easy rocket ship nuffy understandable dials




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[mudski]

Charged my telephony keeping warm in a SWB TB45NA Maverick via a cigarette lighter USB modification, sweet & easy rocket ship nuffy understandable dials




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You outta power too? We’ve been out since 7am.


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[AB]

Finally got my winch running again!

Turns out somehow moisture got into my Albright solenoid and destroyed it damn it.

Not sure how that happened as it’s supposed to be a sealed unit.




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[mudnut]

Yeah. Its fate is sealed...

I use proper electrical J boxes for any winch gear or driving light circuit breakers.

[Stropp]

A91B8AE3-9BE1-45A2-AF52-2AB676DA7300.jpeg[ATTACH=CONFIG]84638 new mags and toyo 285/75/16 RT tyres today, still had tread left but with how hard it is to source tyres and rising costs I bit the bullet.

[Cuppa]

Spent much of the day under the car trying to find/fix the cause of my sub tank to main tank fuel transfer system not working,

It died half way up the Old Telegraph Track. I never did trust it so had trialled emptying the 85 litre sub with a jiggler hose wen we were at home, hoping we wouldn't need to use it, but giving us a failsafe means of avoiding becoming stranded somewhere. Siphon into jerries & then siphon out of jerries into main tank. A PIA, but it worked.

At the same time the sub tank light came on the sub tank fuel gauge went to empty , when the tank was full. Found nothing whilst we were camped at Canal Creek for 3 days.

Yesterday I found one of the twin cable running from sub tank to transfer pump had been flapping about a bit & contacted the driveshaft, wearing partially through one of the two wires. Optimism rose & I cut out the damaged section & rejoined the wires with a new length. Switched on ignition & hey presto the sub tank fuel gauge went from empty to full. Taped it all up & zip tied the wires to keep them out of harms way & then re-tested. It was like I had done nothing - back to square one. Back under the car wishing I hadn't done such a good job of taping it all up. Removed tape & found three of the el cheapo ebay special spade connectors had not crimped properl due to having ultra short crimping section hidden by the insuation. Grrr. Re-did the job & triple checked the comnnections, including usining the multi meter to check continuity. Ignition on - no movement on the sub tank fuel gauge, & nothing I've ried since has changed that. Checked fuse,wiggled connections, traced wire from the tank's sender unit to the other side of the car (plastic cover over a couple of multi pin connectors roughly below the passenger door attached to the chassis) & checked continuity from there to the disconnected plug on the side of the sub tank. All good.

The sub tank warning light still comes on & the green light on the switch doesn't.

Have given up, can't think of anything else it could be other than a fault up inside the dash on a PCB. Not a job I'm going to take on.

Either it will be an auto sparky job when we eventually leave the Cape (but if things work out, that may not be for another 18 months) or I may try to bypass the car's sub tank control system & just have a manual on/off switch to operate the transfer pump. Can't imagine that would be too hard to do, but I would prefer to heve a working sub tank fuel gauge before i do that.

If anyone has any further thoughts as to what I could check I'm all ears. And yes I have disconnected the battery (multiple times). Prior to the system failing the sub tank gauge had for some time been showing about 3/4 full when it was 100% ful(?? consistent with the pump wire rubbing on the driveshaft, & wearing it away, & the sub tank lighr commomly came on if I overfilled both tanks. The latter had always been rectified by disconnecting the battery for a while once we had used a bit of fuel - a pain because disconnecting the battery would reset the trip counters. The fuel gauge not working at all was new. For the life of me I cannot understand why it worked again briefly after I repaired the transfer pump power cables. It did at least suggest to me that the fault wasnt at the sender unit in the tank end.

I used to think the designer of two hard to reach horizontal oil filters should have been given a good kicking, but now whoever thought this stupid sub tank sstem was a good idea should have been committed to an institution for the insane!

Geez & double geez!