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Thread: Zinc anode sacrificial plates GQ

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    Expert Truckus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamIam View Post

    So Trukus; wots the downside of using zinc anode "buttons" at $5 a pop? Yes there is work in it, I have to find or drill a (usually) non visible bolt in every panel/part, rub the spot it goes in back to bare metal and bolt on the button... I have to do this in every panel/part that is (or might be by way of grease or seal) electrically isolated from the rest eg the bonnet. But otherwise there is no adverse reaction or chemical reaction when not submerged in salt water? Yes it is arguably over-engineered but on the other hand it will remove any inhibition to driving lower down the beach where the washouts from creeks are less dangerous...
    Sure mate, rather than typing a huge post check out these links

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection

    https://eoncoat.com/what-is-cathodic...-does-it-work/

    In summary, you need a conductor, or conduit or electrolyte to carry the sacrificial electrons (as the anode is ionized) from the anode to the cathode. So you need a constant conductor, that in itself is not prone to becoming ionized (so a chassis or body shell may also become ionized if carrying free electrons from the anode, and thus also corrode) where as if an electrolyte such as Salt water, not an issue,(hence steel hulls on ships and rig platforms and wharves use these) as the anode cops all the corrosion only.

    Without the electrolyte the cathode (body/chassis of car) losses its ability to remain as the cathode as it ionizes along the current path, thus promoting electrolysis and corrosion.

    You with me there.
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    SamIam (29th March 2021)

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