Jay see 1997 GU build up

[jay see]

If it were me. I would chonk out the section of the bullbar. Do you have access to a grinder and the 1/4" dia shank burrs? I think the fairlead plate needs to be supported across its back, and i would not thin it down.

Nah, not at home. Could cut most of it out with a grinder and get a die grinder bit from work and put it in a drill to clean it up.

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[PeeBee]

Since I took the leap from the Dremel to the 240V die grinder, a whole new world of opportunity and pain has opened up. I am yet to really master the stability of the bit as have bent 4 burrs to date - into the bin they go. Where I am finding it invaluable is opening up clearance holes for bolts.

[jay see]

Stupid question....

Will a air powered die grinder work off a portable tyre air compressor??

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[PeeBee]

Stupid question....

Will a air powered die grinder work off a portable tyre air compressor??

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No, they use too much air. You need a compressor and large tank or a really high flow compressor. A few of the guys on here have battery units, I know @MB has the Milwaukee brand, I bought the 240V Makita, and am very happy with it. What would have been good is a speed control pot on the grinder as mine is a single speed - bloody fast all the time.

[jay see]

No, they use too much air. You need a compressor and large tank or a really high flow compressor. A few of the guys on here have battery units, I know @MB has the Milwaukee brand, I bought the 240V Makita, and am very happy with it. What would have been good is a speed control pot on the grinder as mine is a single speed - bloody fast all the time.

Thought as much.

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[Mickhead]

Getting back to this.

Test fit and the plate looks to fit pretty good.

Bolting the fairlead through the bullbar and into the plate I have a few different options.

1. I'll will need to make the opening a little bigger or the fairlead won't sit flat on the plate.

2. Taking 3mm (thickness of bullbar) off the back of the fairlead will leave me with 5mm wall for the unbrako to sit in.

3. Don't cut or mill anything and have a 3mm gap between the plate and the fairlead.

Option 3 would be easier and would allow water to run through.

Thoughts please...



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Looks like you have about 15 to 20 mm of fairlead overhanging either side of the plate you welded to the back of the bullbar. Machine or grind the rear of these 15 to 20mm sections back like you said by 3 mm. Your fairlead is bearing bugger all load, its only guiding your rope.

[PeeBee]

The fairlead only sees zero load when the rope is sliding straight over it. Any angular pull into the winch outs load on the fairlead. Its a sliding load, so decreased by the co-eff of friction, but it is not potentially next to nothing. The fairlead needs to be supported or it may bend - simple reactions taking place.

[jay see]

Hit it with a grinder this afternoon, will tidy it up with the die grinder at work.

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[jay see]

Question regarding getting the rope on the drum.

Took off the old cable and it looks like the small bolt that attached to the drum was broken. Do I need to attach the new rope the same way? I read that some just wrap it tightly. I'm going to put some tape as a marker about 2 metres before the end.

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[PeeBee]

If you can use the original mounting bolt, just do that. Alternately @MudRunnerTD, @Rossco, @NB have all used different knots and hillbilly chants i believe on their ropes with success.