mudnut's 'Old Trol' build thread.

[Figjam]

Here is a link to a Red-winch simple and cheap solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eokeJokyX9Q

[PeeBee]

Here is a link to a Red-winch simple and cheap solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eokeJokyX9Q

Clever, simple, like it, thanks

[mudnut]

I reassembled the brake and it acted against my hand as if it was being used when twisted in one direction. The winch is back in so will try it tomorrow.

[Rossco]

Personally think a welded tag / loop and knot is the simplest and best solution. A figure 8 stopper knot should be able to wind out rope all the way no problems and start winching. Synthetic rope is more slippery on the drum compared to cable and the standard crimp and rivet fittings are pretty piss poor and always let you down when you need it most lol. .

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[mudnut]

I made the loop out of an 8mm bolt, so it is plenty strong enough.

[10G]

@PeeBee At 2:20 minutes you can see the rope pulling the lug out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBp9fVsD_I4

This is interesting, not seen that happen before. I always wind my rope back in under some degree of load/tension, mainly as I've always thought that the taught rope will be less susceptible to water & grit ingress while just sitting month after month on the drum. But after seeing that video, having the rope tight on the drum should also stop that problem of the initial force from a winch travelling all the way back through the rope and possibly to the point of connection with the drum.

[mudnut]

Another thing I learned about dyneema is to go pull it back and forth across the fairlead as you wind the rope in. This stops it from sinking deep into the layers and getting jammed in there.

[mudnut]

How do I remove the clutch fork, when, or before splitting the gearbox? (I've only changed out a few engines with autos)

[Rossco]

Hey Muddy sorry to hear about the motor what a bloody bugga. . Pull the motor out first then remove clutch fork if required, if not all good Good luck with it all. .

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[mudnut]

Mate, it is looking better than what the inspection camera showed me. On start up, the engine made bad clacking noises and was missing, badly. On pulling the spark plugs on 1 and 2, the gaps were squashed together. The camera showed debris and what I thought was a big dent in the bore, plus vertical scoring. With help from Mrs mudsane and mudnutette, we lifted the head off (with help from a hand winch as well).

I found some battered pieces of sheetmetal about 2-3 long x 1cm wide that have been folded and pounded to a few mm thick. There are a few small dings in the piston crowns. It turns out, that the big dent in the bore was a reflection of the battered metal pieces sitting on the piston. The vertical lines have no depth to them.

I have have vacuumed out the debris. The pistons seem to all come up out of the bore to the same height. The valves on 1 and 2 have many small dings on them.

I need a professional to check every thing to see if all the valves and cam are still serviceable. I just hope that no metal has gotten down between the rings.

At the very least, it will need the head machined, a new head gasket, oil change and filter, coolant and a timing belt.