2017 Y61 3 liter diesel surging and power issues

[Darrylbandit]

Excellent ill look into that, yes please take me through installing the Dawes and needle valve this will help a great deal.

We are also at a higher altitude where I live at around 1400 metres would that maybe also have exaggerated the surging issues?

Thanks again

[Bidja]

Excellent ill look into that, yes please take me through installing the Dawes and needle valve this will help a great deal.

We are also at a higher altitude where I live at around 1400 metres would that maybe also have exaggerated the surging issues?

Thanks again

My CRD, have used Dawes and now Tillix, both good kit. I like the way Tillix is handling the higher boost (26psi). I am not saying that the Dawes would not be suitable, it is just what the tuner preferred when I had the first tune with new Procharge h/f turbo. I have always ran the Italian made Tognella needle valve. I recently installed the Tillix kit (boost and needle valves) in another vehicle and all went real well (CRD Auto).

Attached for you to have a look at: (Chaz-manual boost controller, specifically Single stage TDi Dawes Manual Boost Control systems). Have a read of this first and if more help needed, ask when you get your kit.

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manua...Controller.htm

Remember the Vac solenoid is to be isolated (blocked off)_refer Chaz doc and the poor photo attached (loop back the first two ports and for the third just cut it off say 50mm length and put a screw in it(screw not shown).

Vac Solenoid.jpeg.jpg

Note: With the VNT solenoid being isolated with manual boost control for CRD, solenoid needs to remain plugged in to wiring loom. There is a fix using a resistor but I left the solenoid in place and electrically connected.


Chaz document provides instruction to set boost and spool.

In general, as the CRD can handle max spool, you can set max boost with needle valve fully closed.
Set Dawes/Tillix to say 16 psi, observed by driving up hill (slight load) 3rd gear at approx 3000rpm, for a duration around 10sec and observe if you get limp. This is where you need a scan tool for clearing any limp fault. If you get limp back boost off to 15.5psi etc until no limp occurs. If no limp at 16psi, increase boost up in 0.5 psi increments and when limp occurs back off slightly (to achieve no limp). With stock ECU max boost is approx 16-16.5 psi. You may get higher, remember that limp is most likely to occur when hauling and especially when towing up hill under load..

Then you can adjust needle valve for the spool rate that suits.
IMO, after setting max boost (with needle closed), with veh stationary, eng at idle, unscrew needle valve to where the actuator rod just starts to drop down (lever off the stop/grub screw) and then wind it in 1/8 a turn. This should give reasonable spool.
Do not adjust this stop screw.

Altitude influence - I live at 600m and often travel up to 1400-1500m. With stock size (Tig welded) cooler @ 600m there was a 1-1.5 psi drop across cooler and at 1400m gave 3psi drop. Pressure drop across JT cooler is not influenced much at all by these altitude variations. The surge you are experiencing maybe caused by poor induction flow, IC pressure drop (eg: boost) or even actuator rod length adjustment. Actuator rod length should be adjusted to where the actuator lever just rises and hits the grub screw stop (CRD) with a vacuum applied of approx 14 inches of mercury (14"Hg). I have done a bit of adjustment here with my h/f turbo as it was being laggy low down in higher gears.. First install your JT cooler, manual boost control and do tune.