been for a drive on both flat and hilly terrain. on the flat terrain and probably about 5 kms with normal stop/start the hubs were warm and totally acceptable. on the hilly section with both up and downhill sections the hubs got as hot as before (no significant drop in temperature). So, I am still at a loss to explain/resolve this heat retention in the hubs business.
Did you adjust the bearings?Originally Posted by 94patrol
been for a drive on both flat and hilly terrain. on the flat terrain and probably about 5 kms with normal stop/start the hubs were warm and totally acceptable. on the hilly section with both up and downhill sections the hubs got as hot as before (no significant drop in temperature). So, I am still at a loss to explain/resolve this heat retention in the hubs business.
The excessive heat can't be from free wheeling hubs mate (afaics). It must be from the bearings or the brakes.
When it's hot, put on pair of leather gloves & undo the wheel and investigate. It is from both wheels of the front, right?!
Binding or grinding brake is usually the most common cause, seconded by tight bearings.
RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
Few more mods on the way
http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
https://www.panthera.org/
Cheetah Outreach
yup, It's from both front wheels. I have jacked the wheels up and spun them. The breaks are not binding. I have checked superficially if it is the bearings by grabbing the wheels and rocking them....no play. I had the whole front done by Patrolapart, all the way back to the king pins only about 3 weeks ago.
Yeah, I believe ya, but as a general rule, I prefer to do my own checks as well.
Check the drag of the wheel by turning it, not the play. A slight play is not likely cause excess friction heat, but too much drag
will cause excess heat(and bearing damage).
The best time to check whether the brakes are binding (or the bearings are dragging) is when it is hot where you can't touch it
with bare hands.
I still think it can't be from the freewheeling hubs(unless there has been something really gone bad with them due to wear/bad service/ etc)
RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
Few more mods on the way
http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
https://www.panthera.org/
Cheetah Outreach
Heat in a rotating mechanism can only be generated by Friction.
Sooo lets work thru the whole front drive drive train.
Logic says it can't be the Brake Calipers dragging and they have been ruled out.
If it was then the Calipers will drag on and off road regardless of the FWH and the temps will be the same on and off road (or even hotter after belting up and down the bitumen at higher speeds).
Logic says it probably isn't the Wheel Bearings for similar reasons as the Calipers
Logic says it probably isn't the FWH themselves.
A FWH is simply a Dog Clutch so only has independently rotating and stationary parts when 'free'.
Even when packed with the incorrect or too much grease they don't get obscenely hot they just get hard to engage or chatter
That means a FWH would be hotter on the Bitumen because when 'engaged' all parts are stationary relative to each other
Sooo, logic says it must be something that is only introduced when the FWHs are engaged and/or 4WD so lets work thru them
Can't be the Transfer Box
Can't be the Front Drive Shaft or Uni Joints
Can't be the Axle Seals
I'd be amazed if the Front Diff could generate that amount of heat and for the heat to conduct out to the Hubs in that short a time and not be screaming like a banshee BUT it wouldn't hurt to check the Diff for ease of rotation and the diff pumpkin temp
Unfortunately that rules out just about everything mechanical 'cept the diff etc sooooo...
Jump under the vehicle with the Transfer case in 'neutral' or '2H' and the FWH in 'free' and see how much effort it takes to turn the front drive shaft by hand.
If you can turn it with reasonably little effort by hand then the diff should be OK
Which leaves Braking.
To fully rule out braking issues go and find a safe place (large empty Car Park or whatever) where you can simulate heavy braking.
Drive around the area at low speeds in 2H with the Hubs in 'free' say under 40 and do a series of light and some firm to heavy (not lock up) braking applications for 5 minutes or so.
If the Hubs are hot as beejesus then there must be some issues with the front braking effort
If the hubs are normal do the same thing with the Hubs 'locked' BUT leave the transfer in 2H.
If the Hubs are hot as beejesus after that then the issue is front diff/axle related
Last edited by the evil twin; 21st December 2017 at 03:32 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
dom14 (24th December 2017)
... uuummmm... I just reread your original post.
Can you confirm the hubs overheat in 2 and 4wd or is it only when doing tracks in 4wd?
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
ok....will jack up the wheels when they are hot and post results soon....I am scratching my head a bit....it shouldn't be that hard to figure it out
How is the diff oil? Is it up the fill plug when on a level surface. What condition is it in. Is there grease packed into the Constant Velocity joints? What condition is that in too?
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
I think the CVs and the diff would've gone kaput with enough noise before it would transfer a lot of heat to the FWH.
RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
Few more mods on the way
http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
https://www.panthera.org/
Cheetah Outreach
Ok.....I have rotated the drive shaft whilst in 2wd n neutral. Can turn the drive shaft effortlessly....I will do the carpark heavy stopping a little bit later. The hubs get hot in either two or 4wd situation. I first noticed this after a track drive when I tried to free the hubs. So I immediately thought it was my bearings but under load. Then post returning I checked it more vigilantly and it occurs in either situation. I had drained and renewed the oils, did all the basic checks and when it was still,occurring I took it to Patrolapart.
I have just double checked my diff oil level and for contamination. I can confirm it is at the correct level and not contaminated. Patrolapart services the front ends, both hubs and cvs. I am pretty certain the cvs will be packed with grease. I was advised they are in good knick.
So, that leaves two things left to check off, (a) the simulated heavy braking in 2wd n 4wd modes and (b) when HOT jack the wheels up to see if the brakes are binding.
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