How to get intake temps below 20 degrees

[johno90]

Sorry for the very late reply, Heres some pics of the cool, heat exchanger and bar/plate heat exchanger & lines.
Got a bit ahead of myself as all this new power ate the clutch so now im half way through putting in an auto haha :P
Im also building a cooler case to sit the exchanger in and insulate the a/c return lines and water lines.
Ive put about 2,500km on the setup so far and couldn't be happier

19814108_905224079626066_1800076384_o.jpg19814196_905224076292733_1891210325_o.jpg19821189_905224096292731_2122481403_o.jpg19821223_905222576292883_512938111_o.jpg

[PeeBee]

I am wondering how effective this might be if it was adapted to use on the oil cooler circuit? I know the heat load is probably higher and likely would have a detrimental effect on the cabin a/c system - what are your thoughts? I am curious regards my new chev diesel installation, plus i am sure @MB would be keen to know as well as he battles heat stress more than me. Interestingly I have temp probes on the tops and bottom of the radiator and the inlet/outlets of the existing oil cooler and the oil sits at about 90 deg c and the water at 72 degC cruising, up to about ambient temps of say 33degC and moderate driving.

[nissannewby]

Nothing wrong with those oil temps. You dont want low oil temps as the engine and oil are made to work at those temps. Usually from 80-100C is a good operating temp.

Charge air temp and engine oil temp are two very different things in relation to their effect and where they operate.

With everything temp wise what you want is stability. 90C coolant temps are perfectly acceptable but if it sky rockets at the slightest addition of load then you have an issue. And for the most part it wont be the radiator at fault but poor system maintenance or poor airflow. A radiator will nearly always work at around 10 degress temp drop across the core with adequate air supply no matter its size. (In perspective of course)

[PeeBee]

Nothing wrong with those oil temps. You dont want low oil temps as the engine and oil are made to work at those temps. Usually from 80-100C is a good operating temp.

Charge air temp and engine oil temp are two very different things in relation to their effect and where they operate.

With everything temp wise what you want is stability. 90C coolant temps are perfectly acceptable but if it sky rockets at the slightest addition of load then you have an issue. And for the most part it wont be the radiator at fault but poor system maintenance or poor airflow. A radiator will nearly always work at around 10 degress temp drop across the core with adequate air supply no matter its size. (In perspective of course)

OK, thanks for that, I get approx 9 -12 deg C drop across the coil according to the probes. Just curious regards elevated temps from high ambients and also towing loads.

[johno90]

@PeeBee as @NissanNewbie said your oil temps are good, and consistency is the key to them, In saying that if your talking about a 6.5 diesel they can be pretty temperamental sometimes had a few of them in other chevs I've owned.
But adding additional systems will not diminish cabin a/c performance if the gas quantity is correct. Only exception is if you go to big then you need a bigger compressor to pump said extra area.

Just for info sakes - There is actually a place in the US that makes td/tb bellhousing adapters to allow you to run a chev auto behind a td42 etc :P

[PeeBee]

Thanks Johno90, I will see how this next summer goes and evaluate then.

[johno90]

Hey, Just a bit of an update!

So up here in lovely Moranbah its Hot ASF! Perfect to test everything out.
Current setup is same as before except I now have an auto instead of a manual.
Test setup:
41 Degree day
2t Load on the trailer
33" tyres with 4.1 diffs
re4 Auto
36psi boost 18g turbo

Run along the highway and up the range.
Results:
Highway:
Coolant temp:90
Amb temp:48
Intake temp: 22
Water temp- measured at w2a rad: 10

Up the Range:
Coolant temp: 97
Amb temp:49
Intake temp: 24
Water temp w2a: 11
Boost constant around 30psi

All up I am very happy with how it turned out If i did it again I would probs get a bigger plate exchanger which would give better results again. Tho any bigger would be pushing the pumping limits of the compressor which is ok just means would have to mount up a slightly large compressor.

In saying all of this to, in cab A/C is still icy cold, no draw backs from the system at all.

[Tip12345]

Righto ... how about a parts list ! this sounds like something I would like to try .
I hate the inter cooler on mu GU . sitting on top of the engine . I can do the fabrication . just need a help with the bits ... what a great idea

[johno90]

layout.jpg
So thats the layout, Red lines are high pressure side and Blue lines and Low pressure side.
Fittings and hose layout will be up to where ever you mount your cooler but you get a rough idea if you look at mine and where i welded the joiners in.
Any plate heat exchanger that will handle 300psi will work fine, tho bigger is better in this case mines a around 200mm x 50mm x 60 plates deep.
As for the intercooler itself its straight from Frozen Boost, I've been using them for years in drag cars & patrols and never had an issue- just don't cheap out you can see on their site the cores that are better quality and are around $200 more expensive.

Water is plumbed from bottom port of intercooler radiator to bosch water pump, up through the plate exchanger where it is cooled by the a/c then out through the intercooler then back to the main radiator for the intercooler.

There is only 1 other person in Aus making these kits and hes selling them for around $2500 not including an intercooler just the A/C stuff.

[PeeBee]

Hey, Just a bit of an update!

So up here in lovely Moranbah its Hot ASF! Perfect to test everything out.
Current setup is same as before except I now have an auto instead of a manual.
Test setup:
41 Degree day
2t Load on the trailer
33" tyres with 4.1 diffs
re4 Auto
36psi boost 18g turbo

Run along the highway and up the range.
Results:
Highway:
Coolant temp:90
Amb temp:48
Intake temp: 22
Water temp- measured at w2a rad: 10

Up the Range:
Coolant temp: 97
Amb temp:49
Intake temp: 24
Water temp w2a: 11
Boost constant around 30psi

All up I am very happy with how it turned out If i did it again I would probs get a bigger plate exchanger which would give better results again. Tho any bigger would be pushing the pumping limits of the compressor which is ok just means would have to mount up a slightly large compressor.

In saying all of this to, in cab A/C is still icy cold, no draw backs from the system at all.

This is bugging me! I am seriously considering it for my barge. What I don't understand is the function of the w2a radiator? Is this simply a reservoir? Reason being if the w2a water temp is 10 deg, why would you put it back thru the w2a radiator if the ambient is 49degC, then re-chill it with the a.c gas? I am assuming the coolant temps above are the engine radiator temps also? Who out there can clear this up? I have PM'd Johno90 but he isn't a regular visitor it seems.