Exhaust, Gauges, Dyno, Dawse, Needles & Intercoolers

[BigRAWesty]

Hey 10G.
So just my input..
I can't see any issue with the cheap exhaust.
I bought a $550 playtime exhaust and as far as I could see it was built and welded as well as I've ever seen on an exhaust.

But.
There is an order or you may have issues..

So gauges first..
Imo a scangauge is a good investment.
I've also thrown in a boost, egt and oil pressure in a pillar pod..
But how far you go is up to you..

You need gauges for the mechanical boost control..

Very easy to setup. Set the dawes valve for max boost and then set the needle valve to suit your needs..
Ive taken my needle out for a try.
Its going pretty good..

Youll need mechanical boost control for exhaust and egr block if you fit it..
Id personally still fit the boost control even if you keep the stock exhaust.. the stock ecu is shit lol..

[10G]

Gday Kallen,

I've got a poor mans scanguage, it shows me stuff and I can clear errors with it. I also have the Torque app on my phone.

I'll be fitting a Dawse & EGT guage.

Re the exhaust, yeah. I was just sitting around this afternoon and was thinking about all that. I just need a mild steel or whatever it is exhaust, I certainly don't need stainless, mandrel bends would be nice, but I'm a bit in doubt as to how much of a benefit they are in the case of a 4x4. When you say mechanical boost control, do you mean the dawse??

[BigRAWesty]

Gday Kallen,

I've got a poor mans scanguage, it shows me stuff and I can clear errors with it. I also have the Torque app on my phone.

I'll be fitting a Dawse & EGT guage.

Re the exhaust, yeah. I was just sitting around this afternoon and was thinking about all that. I just need a mild steel or whatever it is exhaust, I certainly don't need stainless, mandrel bends would be nice, but I'm a bit in doubt as to how much of a benefit they are in the case of a 4x4. When you say mechanical boost control, do you mean the dawse??

Youll struggle to find an aftermarket exhaust these days that isn't mandrel bent, it's like a minimum standard now..

And yea boost control is your dawes valve..

[rainsey]

Sorry, got a scotch or two under my belt so if there is any incoherency in my reply you know in advance.

A few people have recommended the scanguage. In my ZD30 days I installed one and to be quite honest, it was the thing that I was toggling between if I stuck with the ZD30 or migrated ( see guys did not say upgrade) to the 6.5.

I absolutely loved it and would highly recommend from a monitoring perspective this is the first thing to do. Albeit a Scanguage (R) or a compatible alternative.

Now I have migrated to the 6.5. I still use my scanguage as my speedo, volt meter, Tacho and more important water temp gauge.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[10G]

So I just went for a 45 minute drive using the Torque app on my phone to monitor the Boost levels.

On the flat with the cruise control on doing 100 it was anywhere between 13-14. Going up rises it dropped to 10-12 and going down rises down to 6 or less.

I saw it peak at 16.2 but the highest it regularly got was in the low 15s.

I'm realising I don't understand as much as I thought I did. Wouldn't the boost go up when you went up a rise and not drop? And the readings are all over the place, the spike at 16 was going around a bend with a very slight rise at 100.

[mudski]

So I just went for a 45 minute drive using the Torque app on my phone to monitor the Boost levels.

On the flat with the cruise control on doing 100 it was anywhere between 13-14. Going up rises it dropped to 10-12 and going down rises down to 6 or less.

I saw it peak at 16.2 but the highest it regularly got was in the low 15s.

I'm realising I don't understand as much as I thought I did. Wouldn't the boost go up when you went up a rise and not drop? And the readings are all over the place, the spike at 16 was going around a bend with a very slight rise at 100.

Yeah that all sounds normal. Remember high boost is not the issue. Low boost is. If you had an egt gauge in you would see what i mean. When the low boost happens, your egts would be really high. In my opinion, with this motor you would notice no difference between mandrel bent or not. Its not a race car. As Kallen said too regarding the exhaust. A cheaper pipe will be fine. The cat is the important part though. A quality high flow cat is a must in my opinion. A muffler isnt needed for this motor. But is for legality reasons. Even if the sound output is under the limit, a muffler must still be present.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

[BigRAWesty]

As I said 10G the stock ecu control of the boost is shit to put it nicely..
But it's normal to drop boost down hills. Remember about the load on engine producing more boost than an unloaded engine.

But you've got some good data.
Once your dawes is in mate aim for that 16psi.
And your similar to mine on the cruzing levels to.
Mine sat on 14-15psi cruzing at 100kmh.

[10G]

Went for another 45 min drive with the Android boost gauge on the phone.

I've been learning a few things which are new to me. The more revs I do the more boost I get, (I know that's not rocket science but I've never had a boost gauge before). This isn't really what we want off road. How we can we create more boost at lower revs?

I reckon I understand what the Dawse valve does now, when the boost pressure reaches a certain point that pressure opens the Dawse valve which in turn opens the turbo actuator waste gate which in turn slows the turbo down. But I still don't understand what the needle valve does?

Another question, when I look at my boost gauge and it goes from 11 - 13 - 9 - 13 - 8 - 13 - 6 - 13 etc etc when I'm driving at a constant speed on a flat road, is it the ECU that is making the boost readings jump around crazy like that?

Another question. Does the Dawse valve setup take the control of the wastegate away from the ECU? If so, is there anything that needs to be done to the ECU after the Dawse valve is put in place, anything need to be plugged up, taped over, disconnected?

Sorry if the questions seem a little simple minded, but I'm finding all this fascinating.

One more thing. I think I read that one side of needle valve just sucks in clean air to go and do with whatever the needle valve does. Would this mean that if the needle valve was mounted in the cabin, you could get away with only 1 hose coming into the cabin and the hose, or the other side of the needle valve, just open sucking in air from the cabin??

Thanks for any help.

[mudski]

Went for another 45 min drive with the Android boost gauge on the phone.

I've been learning a few things which are new to me. The more revs I do the more boost I get, (I know that's not rocket science but I've never had a boost gauge before). This isn't really what we want off road. How we can we create more boost at lower revs? This is where the needle valve works. This is used to soley adjust your boost spool up.

I reckon I understand what the Dawse valve does now, when the boost pressure reaches a certain point that pressure opens the Dawse valve which in turn opens the turbo actuator waste gate which in turn slows the turbo down. Yes........But I still don't understand what the needle valve does? See above......

Another question, when I look at my boost gauge and it goes from 11 - 13 - 9 - 13 - 8 - 13 - 6 - 13 etc etc when I'm driving at a constant speed on a flat road, is it the ECU that is making the boost readings jump around crazy like that? Yes it is. Hence the reason for using manual boost controllers....

Another question. Does the Dawse valve setup take the control of the wastegate away from the ECU? YES..... If so, is there anything that needs to be done to the ECU after the Dawse valve is put in place, anything need to be plugged up, taped over, disconnected? No. Only plug off the three unused vacuum ports on the now defunked vacuum boost controller next to the air box.

Sorry if the questions seem a little simple minded, but I'm finding all this fascinating.

One more thing. I think I read that one side of needle valve just sucks in clean air to go and do with whatever the needle valve does. Would this mean that if the needle valve was mounted in the cabin, you could get away with only 1 hose coming into the cabin and the hose, or the other side of the needle valve, just open sucking in air from the cabin??


Hmm not sure what you mean here, but some people mount the needle valve in the cab. Not a good idea. all you will find yourself doing is constantly playing with the needle valve and screwing up the settings. This is a set and forget setup. Unless you are talking about the hose for the boost gauge. If that is the case, no. The needle valve requires a non positive air pressure to work.

Thanks for any help.

So in a nut shell.
The Dawes function is to cap or limit the max boost pressures. The needle valve is there to control how fast the turbo will spin or spool up to your max boost level.

[10G]

Thanks for all your help Mark I'm looking forward to getting this all setup an working.