2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. Patrol Sold after 11 years of ownership Replaced with 2006 OKA NT Expedition Truck. Cummins, Allison & lots of goodies
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Correction I have 2 X D31a Optima yellow tops under the bonnet. Not sure that changes anything? Just a bit bigger.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
150Ah. If going with dc to dc to charge them then a 20 or 25 amp unit would still be ok, but could fit a 40 amp unit if you are likely to be heavily discharging them.
Mind you, I still haven’t heard why you think you need one at all for them. Maybe before deciding do the following: 1.Charge the Optimas at home with a mains smart charger until they are full (charger goes into float mode),
2. Go camping & just use things as you normally do. 3. Drive home & park car overnight having ensured that nothing is running off the optimas. 4. Next morning check the Optima voltages with a multimeter/volt meter across the terminals. If you have a voltage of 12.6v+ (if new I’d say 12.7v+, but at 5 years old it is likely that some capacity will have been lost) you wont need a dc to dc charger for them. 12.5v would be a line ball call, but could just be reduced battery capacity.
FWIW I previously had a set with two alternator charged D31 Yellowtop Optima’s as crank batteries (24v) paralleled to a pair of 90Ah aux batteries (Fullriver) via a two way VSR, & topped up with 2x60w solar panels & had no concerns with this despite slightly different recommended bulk charging voltages. From memory Optima say a slightly higher bulk charging voltage than ‘conventional’ AGM batteries can be used, but they give a range, suggesting that charging them at a conventional 14.4v/14.5v is fine. Just that they can be charged a bit quicker at up to 15v provided they are under a specified temperature. I suspect that this is a bit of marketing hype to try to differentiate their ‘spiral wound’ construction, & in reality their requirements are little different to any other AGM battery which could also be treated similarly if battery temperature was monitored.
Besides...... fitting a DC toDC charger won’t raise the bulk charging voltage unless you set it on the Calcium setting, which I wouldn’t advise as it would likely overcharge them (15.1v I think). What it does do is use it’s electronic ‘smarts’ to squeeze in a bit more once the battery is above 80% full, which in most circumstances the alternaor alone wont do.
The ‘raising the voltage’ function is different for circumstances like the camper battery. It can raise the a voltage which has been reduced by the longer wire run to the needed 14.4v/14.5v. Without this the voltage drop in the cabling can prevent the camper battery from being properly charged. It also does the over 80% ‘squeezing in’ function.
Last edited by Cuppa; 15th October 2016 at 07:41 AM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. Patrol Sold after 11 years of ownership Replaced with 2006 OKA NT Expedition Truck. Cummins, Allison & lots of goodies
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
MudRunnerTD (15th October 2016)
I have to agree with Cuppa in asking the question, do you really need one. I had a Redarc bc:dc 1220 under the bonnet to charge a Deka AGM battery. I was hoping to extend the life of the battery as they are expensive ($400 at the time). My battery only lasted 3.5 years and had lost some capacity in the months before it dropped a cell (battery had expanded). I don't know how long it would have lasted without the charger but it was not cost effective for me to add the charger. I feel that I just spent money for no reason on this occasion.
If the car had a smart alternator then they would be useful or in a camper for voltage drop. Patrol alternators provide decent output and if you charge it regularly with a 240 volt charger when at home then it should keep the battery in good condition. Then again, you might have better luck than I did. If you already have 5 years out of your AGM's under the hood then you must be doing something right.
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
MudRunnerTD (16th October 2016)
Agree with Cuppa and Rock Trol - your usage will determine the $$ you actually need to spend here. Marketing is a wonderful thing and convinces many of us to buy shit we really don't need.
I am happily using the old Redarc 15A BMS for my main Aux battery in my trucks canopy, but only using a solar reg to charge my 2nd Aux battery (under bonnet) when needed, and if not going for a drive every few days. This has saved me a stack of coin, and works perfectly for what I use it for. ie. I run a 2nd fridge off it that sits on the back seat on longer trips, plus the UHF and a small 350W inverter for camera and laptop charging.
Of note, if you are looking at dc-dc chargers - have a good hard look at another Aussie brand called Intervolt, who make a 25A jobbie that on paper appears to out-spec just about everything else out there at present and at comparable prices.
Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.
MudRunnerTD (16th October 2016)
So I've listened to you guys and abandoned the idea of a DC/DC in the car. Don't fix what ain't broke. Like that logic.
After a fair bit of consideration I found the CTEK unit on sale on eBay at a good price so will fit it into the camper supplying 2 new 105AH AGM batteries (found some for $150 each on eBay! Score)
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Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
http://www.intervolt.com/product/in-...horizontalTab3
Very nice specs indeedy.
Specifications
Input Voltage
Main: 9 17 VDC,
Solar Input: 27 VOC max. (open circuit no load)
Solar Power 250 Watts nominal (300 Watts peak)
Continuous Rating 25 Amps @ 50°C
Current Draw
Charging Device: Including LED indicator <10mA
Remote Display: With backlight off: 10mA max,
With backlight on: 30mA max
Boost Voltage
Standard Lead Acid: 14.4 VDC Nominal
Absorbed Glass Mat: 14.6 VDC Nominal
Gelified Electrolyte: 14.2 VDC Nominal
Lead Calcium: 14.8 VDC Nominal
Float Voltage 13.2 VDC Nominal
Electrical Protection
Thermal overload shutdown auto reset
Electrical overload shutdown auto reset
Under voltage disconnect auto re-connect
Over voltage disconnect auto re-connect
Reverse polarity protection of main terminals
Environmental Protection
Charging Device: IP67 (internal components only)
Remote Display: IP40 (not dust or water resistant)
Operating Temperature -20°C to +85°C
Operating Humidity Up to 98%
Charging Device Materials
Heatsink: E-Coated ADC-3 die cast aluminium
Blue Plastics: Temperature resistant PC/ABS alloy
Black Plastics: 15% glass reinforced PBT
Transparent Plastics: Temperature resistant PMMA
Remote Display Materials
Dark Grey Plastics: Temperature resistant PC/ABS alloy
Transparent Plastics: Temperature resistant PMMA
Terminal Material Tin plated brass
Terminal Fasteners 304 stainless steel
Conformity AS/NZS CISPR 11:2004 for EMC
Dimensions
Charging Device: 112 x 112 x 75mm (including terminal cover)
Remote Display: 60 x 36 x 59mm (including mounting bracket)
Weight
Charging Device: 690 grams
Remote Display: 55 grams
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
MudRunnerTD (4th November 2016), Touses (4th November 2016)
I did have a look at these too. I got the CTek for $265 delivered and couldn't go passed it to be honest.
But just having another look on eBay and this is a Bloody Good deal! If id seen this i may have gone this way as i need a couple of batteries anyway.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FREE-BATT...4AAOSwcUBYG8re
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Whilst I have no quibble about build quality (Intervolt are good) I am disappointed by these specs, or more precisely by one specification & the total absence of another. Intervolt have done the same as Redarc did with my BCDC1240.
Float voltage of 13.2v is lower than all the AGM battery manufacturers recommend & is set at this level because they have, like Rearc failed to incorporate battery temperature compensation (7 monitoring). For those who aren't familiar, battery temp compensation means that the regulator will adjust the charging voltage according to battery temperature, usually by around 0.3v for every 5 degrees above or below 20 deg.C. It is my view that temperature compensation is the feature which most helps to extend battery life.
When VRLA batteries get too hot they can suffer from a phenomena called thermal runaway where they just keep getting hotter & hotter resulting in a bulging & destroyed battery (& fire risk). Often dc to dc chargers are used with batteries housed in the hot under bonnet situation & it is my view that the low float voltage is used as a cheap way of protecting from thermal runaway, instead of monitoring battery temp & adjusting charging to suit. Most battery manufacturers specify a float voltage of 13.6v to 13.8v.
Just out of interest what is the float voltage of the Ctek Darren, & does it have Temperature compensation? If not it is on par with Redarc & Intervolt products. If it does then I would suggest it is first preference.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. Patrol Sold after 11 years of ownership Replaced with 2006 OKA NT Expedition Truck. Cummins, Allison & lots of goodies
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
MudRunnerTD (4th November 2016)
Just opened the box and had a read through the owners manual. its thick but is 8 languages.....
It has a Float Function but doesn't declare the voltage. It has a 1.8m long Temperature Sensor that i connect to the side of the battery and has Temp Compensation but doesn't declare at what temp.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.