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Thread: GQ TB42E manifold valves & hoses - pictures, explanation, thinning the useless stuff.

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    Expert Arfa Brayne's Avatar
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    Here is the engine with all the junk removed

    IMG_1023.JPG
    Removal of the Cold start valve is easy - a couple of bolts and blank off the pipes into the manifold with some 1/2" rubber blanking caps.

    IMG_1021.JPG
    You're better off without all the rusty pipes. Replace the welch plugs while you're at it (and you have access)
    IMG_1014.JPG

    IMG_1024.JPG
    Run 5/8" brass barbs, tee fittings and 5/8" hose throughout for simplicity.
    In the gas converter I spun up a restrictor (8mm hole) to fit inside the 5/8" barb so flow is restricted for the gas converter and biased toward the heater/demister core.
    The heater hoses are fitted high on the firewall to allow access to the back of the engine.

    IMG_1026.JPG
    The Vacuum piping for the boosters now runs direct to the boosters. Seems to work just as good as original. If I need an additional reservoir I'll mount it between the battery and the brake booster on the inner guard.

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    Did the valve clearances, new rocker cover gasket (was leaking oil at back of motor) and threw in some iridium plugs while access was easy.
    "DO it ONCE, do it WELL"

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    Now all that remains to be done is to ditch the spastic clutch bleeder extension (what idiot designed this ? ) and clean up the confusion of wiring and earth leads (how many earth leads do you need ? - really ! )
    "Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
    Best way to deal with a "Can't" is to chop off the "t" and brew it in boiled water for a few minutes.
    Sip on the "t", and consider what you've got left to work with

  2. The Following 11 Users Say Thank You to Arfa Brayne For This Useful Post:

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