Dawes and needle valve settings/wind noise

[mudski]

Assuming you have the plumbing all correct heres what you do.

1. Wind the needle valve(blue cap) right in.
2. Wind the Dawes in maybe until 1/4 of the thread is showing. (Starting point)
3. Start car up.
4. Open the needle valve until the rod on the actuator drops maybe 10mm. This part varies from car to car. You may need to close it off, or open it a bit more.
5. Take the car for a spin and see what max boost you get.
6. If the boost rises really slow and you have not much acceleration, close off the needle valve a little more. When I say little, I mean a little. 1/8th of a turn. Too much adjustment at one time you will just lose yourself in the adjustment process. Do this until your boost rises faster.
7. If the boost rises real fast, you open the needle valve up a little to slow the boost down. Ideally, you want the boost to hit the max boost level set by you quickly, but not go past it and then settle back down. But sometimes tihs is not achievable, so don't get too tied up in this if you cant. Mine used to bounce way past by about 6psi and then settle, but thats how I liked it.
8. Aim for about 16psi as a starting point for max boost. And no less than 10psi at 100k's.
9. To adjust the 100k boost, this is done via the needle valve. by closing the needle valve it will make your boost rise faster, but at the same time, increase the 100k's boost level.
10. Remember the max boost level is relative to the 100k's boost. The higher the max boost you go, you need to raise the 100k's boost too. Otherwise your boost wise rise too slow and the car will run like poo.

When I had my ZD30, I was running 25psi max boost and 18psi at 100k's. Which meant the needle valve was pretty much totally shut. I tried to lower it but the turbo just wouldn't perform...

Hope this helps.

Cheers.
Mark.