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Thread: Overheating Problems

  1. #1
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    thanks guys,
    always up for learning something new about my old girl

    hoping i´ll have the new seals in the morning
    although everythings already been replaced bit over a month ago, have ordered not only the axle seal but spindle seal and grease seal as well.
    $60 is cheap peace of mind

    let you know how i go

    have also been experiencing a bit of an overheating problem, especially when i´m running a/c
    planning a bit of a radical fix which involves a nibbler and my bonnet...

    anyone else dealt with overheating issues?

    maybe this isn´t the right place to ask this q?

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    No but AB will move or copy it into where it will get a good response so don't sweat it mate....

    Define over heating to us as the gauge in the patrols run up pretty hi with little increase in temps.....

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Where you are the dust might have blocked up the radiator too, clean that for starters and as Paul mentioned bit more info will help us.

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    Patrol God Finly Owner's Avatar
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    Finly has new radiator, real coolant and has not been showing any heat rise. Check level of coolant last week and found level down but can't find obvious reason yet. Heater has been on in cold mornings. Suspect heater hose has small seaping leak. So I suggest check your heater hoses if you are losing water, causing a rise in temp.

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    ...replied in wrong area on fri sorry, have copied it here...so anyway:

    okey doke, well here´s a recent example for you...
    heading up to isa a few weeks back and have probably bit over half a ton of tools and gear in my 89 safari wagon. (non turbo td42 5spd)
    ambient temps hit 36 deg and temp gauge sits on bout half at say 100kph
    switch on a/c and temp climbs to within a couple of mm of hot mark on gauge..steady
    switch off a/c temp comes down again after a few minutes of steady driving.
    if i add a hill, higher speed of say 110kph or accelerating, climbs quickly

    have so far, fitted new 3xcore copper radiator (actually ran warmer after that), new clutch, thermostat, water pump was ok bout 6 months ago, have flushed system completely, cleaned a/c condenser core and running correct amount of coolant.

    re, inaccurate gauge, my system is 24v factory so unsure how similar or not from 12v units
    also, as mine´s an early jap model, there´s no factory electric thermo on the front

    in a nutshell, from everything i´ve read and heard, the overheating problems in most gq´s appears to be able to be fixed by drastically increasing the airflow through the cores.
    so my plan is to locate where the air is thrown up from the clutch fan and make some holes in the bonnet.
    have had some factory jap cars with this setup and seemed to work quite well

    if it doesn´t work i´ll turn it into a feature lol

    guess this is how one fixes things in the bush when off the shelf thermo fans etc... aren´t available

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    re your comment AB, good suggestion, but had thought of that one.
    used commercial refrigeration coil cleaner (mild acid in a can) to thoroughly wash both ac condenser and radiator

    so finished cutting hole in bonnet on friday arv
    300 wide
    80 deep

    with bonnet closed, the clutch fan pumps the air straight up out of there just at idle

    expect ambient temps back around 34+ in the area tomorrow, so will test her out on a drive then

    see how we go

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Let us know how you go too mate.

    It's good to hear back on what worked didn't work.

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    Ive got some friends up in the mines with GU utes and they mention that they constantly need flush out their radiators and gerny them clean with the red dust otherwise they heat up constantly.

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    Patrol God Finly Owner's Avatar
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    I'm confused. If you use air con/ heater it should help cool as it is actually going through another small radiator and fan cooler. It doesn't make a big difference but should be slightly noticeable. Unless theres a leak or blockage. Did you say you have teh correct thermostat and and temperature sender unit. I to am unsure of what components can be 12/24 volt use. But I think temp senders should be voltage specific as to guage. when hot is the radiator boiling/ expanding the water?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Finly Owner View Post
    I'm confused. If you use air con/ heater it should help cool as it is actually going through another small radiator and fan cooler. It doesn't make a big difference but should be slightly noticeable.
    Using the heater can help pull engine temps down a bit, but using the A/C will have the opposite effect as the heat from the condensor gets blown over the radiator.

    Bengerman, make sure the radiator is sealed off on the sides, so ALL air entering the front of the vehicle has to go through the radiator. Also make sure all parts of the fan shroud are fitted, as well as the 45 degree stone guard under the radiator. All of these things effect air flow through the radiator.
    Also don't trust the factory gauge, fit an aftermarket gauge and sender. If you talk to someone like VDO, they may have what you need in 24volt (to suit trucks).

    Another thing to try (might be a bit late now with your bonnet mods) is spacing up the back of the bonnet so air can exit there in the low pressure area at the base of the windscreen.

    Tony
    Last edited by YNOT; 14th October 2010 at 11:11 AM.

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