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Thread: Steering Shake.

  1. #71
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    That's cool. I'm getting a lot of comments like yours (and it is definitely appreciated). It's the flip side of wailing doom that worries me. Though I suspect you may be right - those professing the terrible nature of no shims are the ones who might be losing money over it.

    And to be honest, unless someone admits that their [insert part here] broke because the shims were removed, my mind is pretty made up. I'm just cautious enough to give some benefit of the doubt to the nay-sayers.

    Thanks for the comments. It's good to see you've had no issues at all with it.

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  3. #72
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    No probs mate, id even pull them out before the balance, just to sus it out.

  4. #73
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
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    Welllll ............... reading through all this, I had the same problem with mine some time ago. I always buy my tyres from the same tyre outlet and then have them rotated by my usual mechanic when I get a service. One time when he rotated them he also balanced them and after that I got the dreaded wobbles. I took the car back to the mechanic and he said the balance must be out and I stood there watching him for over an hour as he tried to balance the front wheels. His machine came up with all sorts of odd readings. He finally finished but when I took the car out on the highway the wobbles were back. I took the Patrol to my tyre place and they balanced the tyres in no time and the wobbles went away. I asked the tyre guy (a long time friend of mine) why this happened. He said a lot of mechanics and even some tyre places have balance machines that are fine for normal passenger tyres but are useless on wider and heavier 4WD and truck tyres. He told me his machine cost him many thousands of dollars and it is suitable for the larger 4WD and truck tyres.

    Not saying your problem is the same - but I have mentioned this to other Patrol owners that I know and they have gone to a tyre dealer that specialises in truck and 4WD tyres and their problem has gone away as well. It's a cheap thing to try before you spend lots more money.

  5. #74
    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Pulling the shims out just adds preload on the bearing, it's a bandaid fix, just adding resistance to the steering system.

    The first thing that should be checked is the castor. It needs to be between 2.5-3 degrees. That is a very small working tolerance.
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  7. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy View Post
    Pulling the shims out just adds preload on the bearing, it's a bandaid fix, just adding resistance to the steering system.

    The first thing that should be checked is the castor. It needs to be between 2.5-3 degrees. That is a very small working tolerance.
    Yep done the castor correction when the car was lifted, still wobbled, its not a Band-Aid fix its the only fix nothings else works read this post in its entirety Mrs h had done this she practically had a front end rebuilt inc. new standard springs its a design fault from Nissan go on YouTube and do a search your trying to tell me all these cars need their castor corrected and with over 2000 hits to this post there is some reason why they are reading it, how many of these people have the wobbles 100 200 even, with castor issues I don't think so

  8. #76
    Dribble Master Clunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterbr1 View Post
    Yep done the castor correction when the car was lifted, still wobbled, its not a Band-Aid fix its the only fix nothings else works read this post in its entirety Mrs h had done this she practically had a front end rebuilt inc. new standard springs its a design fault from Nissan go on YouTube and do a search your trying to tell me all these cars need their castor corrected and with over 2000 hits to this post there is some reason why they are reading it, how many of these people have the wobbles 100 200 even, with castor issues I don't think so
    Not me, only panhard new bushes required but then again I have a mighty GQ not a GUrly GU


  9. #77
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    I'll get the tyre folks to check the camber while the car is in the shop. The bushes all seem ok, but I will also go over them again.

    Thanks for the comments so far, and apologies for taking over the thread.

  10. #78
    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterbr1 View Post
    Yep done the castor correction when the car was lifted, still wobbled, its not a Band-Aid fix its the only fix nothings else works read this post in its entirety Mrs h had done this she practically had a front end rebuilt inc. new standard springs its a design fault from Nissan go on YouTube and do a search your trying to tell me all these cars need their castor corrected and with over 2000 hits to this post there is some reason why they are reading it, how many of these people have the wobbles 100 200 even, with castor issues I don't think so
    Re read my post.... I said THE FIRST THING THAT SHOULD BE CHECKED IS CASTOR.

    I have read this thread. I asked what the castor was set at... no reply, so it to me it hasnt been checked and documented

    Again in my other post I said that there very small working tolerance.

    How do you know it was correct in the first place? No use throwing castor correction in if you dont know what it was. How can it be corrected of you dont know what to correct? Do you think that the radius arm mounts both chassis and axle are 100% correct to exacting tolerances every time on the 100's of thousands of patrols ever built on a large scale production line? No way... patrols aren't that well built.

    The fact is, that the wobbles are a direct byproduct of castor angle/king pinin inclination, a reduction in castor angle reduces the tyres contact patch with the ground, therefor reducing the stability of the steering system.

    Thats why I stand by my "bandaid fix" comment as removing shims does not change the incination of the king pin.

    While we are here. I too have the wobbles, I bought them home last week end from my trip to landcruiser park. It happens under breaking. Easy fix.
    I have elongated the front bolt hole on the radius arm axle mount, every time I break, the front diff rotates forward, reducing my castor angle, thus reducing the size of tyre's contact patch with the ground and stability in my steering....Bam......wobbles. When i get some lathe time I'll turn some washers from a chunk of 4140 I have, set the castor close to 3 degrees and drive out without the wobbles. Its not the first time I have had the wobbles and it wont be the last

    I'm not interested in watching a video on youtube on bandaid fixes. I would rather learn about suspension and steering engineering so I have an understanding as to why. But each to their own I guess
    96 GQ coil/Cab
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  12. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    Not me, only panhard new bushes required but then again I have a mighty GQ not a GUrly GU
    LoL.........

  13. #80
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    [QUOTE=Ben-e-boy;642000]Re read my post.... I said THE FIRST THING THAT SHOULD BE CHECKED IS CASTOR.

    I have read this thread. I asked what the castor was set at... no reply, so it to me it hasnt been checked and documented

    Again in my other post I said that there very small working tolerance.

    How do you know it was correct in the first place? No use throwing castor correction in if you dont know what it was. How can it be corrected of you dont know what to correct? Do you think that the radius arm mounts both chassis and axle are 100% correct to exacting tolerances every time on the 100's of thousands of patrols ever built on a large scale production line? No way... patrols aren't that well built.

    The fact is, that the wobbles are a direct byproduct of castor angle/king pinin inclination, a reduction in castor angle reduces the tyres contact patch with the ground, therefor reducing the stability of the steering system.

    Thats why I stand by my "bandaid fix" comment as removing shims does not change the incination of the king pin.

    While we are here. I too have the wobbles, I bought them home last week end from my trip to landcruiser park. It happens under breaking. Easy fix.
    I have elongated the front bolt hole on the radius arm axle mount, every time I break, the front diff rotates forward, reducing my castor angle, thus reducing the size of tyre's contact patch with the ground and stability in my steering....Bam......wobbles. When i get some lathe time I'll turn some washers from a chunk of 4140 I have, set the castor close to 3 degrees and drive out without the wobbles. Its not the first time I have had the wobbles and it wont be the last

    I'm not interested in watching a video on youtube on bandaid fixes. I would rather learn about suspension and steering engineering so I have an understanding as to why. But each to their own I guess.

    wow you've solved it you should be rich what do you drive by the way?

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