Hi everyone....I have a puzzling problem and my mechanic recommends I speak with you

[threedogs]

I think its a combination of things, do you have you an after market intercooler fitted.
if not is the one you have now covered in oil.
Id be replacing your fuel lines, cheap enough to do
Do one thing at a time as well

[Charch]

Thanks Callen. My mechanic checked that. Fuel is pumping thru with no air in it.

[Charch]

Thank you three dogs. Good advice. I will call mechanic tomorrow and get that ball rolling.

[Charch]

From memory the intercooler is the original. Why would it be covered in oil? Thanks threedogs

[Charch]

Ok, is that easy enough to do or should I take to auto electrician? Thanks robo

[Charch]

Thanks happygu. Maybe I misheard the crank possibility. I'm not mechanical at all to be honest. I don't actually understand how things work....I'm a teacher at a special school with a fear of doing anything mechanical...because I usually make things worse!!!! I will pass on your guidance in the morning. Definitely food for thought! Thankyou for your time. Actually, thank you to all who are making suggestions. So many potential issues!!!

[Rumcajs]

Wow, firstly congrats on getting ZD30 to that sort of mileage, 420,000 km without blowing up is unbelievable.

Secondly, crank angle sensor is probabby what the mechanic had in mind but I find it curiously strange that a professional has advised you to seek assistance from an Interwebz forum! Please see real pro. Any error with crank angle sensor will log the fault ot DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) and it will stall the engine immediatelly. Throttle position sensor fault would cause the engine RPMs to drop to idle immediately and log the fault. Does the engine check lamp (MIL or malfunction indicator lamp)actually lights up when iginiton key is turned on?

Thirdly, unless you/your mechanic can see what the engine ECU sees while operating you have no hope of identifying what is the problem and just trowing parts at it will be expensive exercise. So using software and the interface like ECUTalk would/could shed a light on the problem if one understand where to look.

As other have said check basics first, could be a loose/corroded wire/s (earth or positive) or worse given the kms possibly injection pump.

Regards

[Bigcol]

but I find it curiously strange that a professional has advised you to seek assistance from an Interwebz forum! Please see real pro.

As other have said check basics first, could be a loose/corroded wire/s (earth or positive) or worse given the kms possibly injection pump.
Regards

as Rumcajs said,
find a mechanic who knows the 3L - or you will be forever handing over hard earned coin....................
you brothers wives nephew may know how to turn a spanner on a D9 dozer, but a 3L is a special bread of "fer fooks sake.........what now......"

do a ring around of your local mechanic's, and ask - "what do you know about the Nissan 3L...???"
if they tell you its crap, hang up and try the next person

yours has done 420K - thats alot in anyones language, so it could just be a combination of several things starting to go pear shaped

your fuel filter should look something like this
FuelFilterAndBleedValve.jpg

the black button on the top is for priming it
the blue bit in the middle is the filter itself
the white bit at the bottom is the water trap & bleed

this could be U/S (un serviceable)

again, as Rumcajs said, you need the diagnostics to tell you whats going wrong / on......... hence the need for someone who does know the 3L engine

[Robo]

Ok, is that easy enough to do or should I take to auto electrician? Thanks robo

Not being and elec my advise would firstly disconnect the battery.

Then Have a looksee around the engine bay + under dash, even behind the kick panels, any where you see a wire or even a few terminated onto the body or chassis is an earth loosen not breaking the wires of course, sometimes they can stick to the nut or bolt and turn with it.
then give contact surfaces a clean and do back up, easy.

Oh "Tip" see below the little Thanks square, give it a click, this registers a thank you point to the person helping you.
Then there's no need to post a thanks each time, unless you feel compelled to of course
cheers

[jff45]

As Rumcajs said, before you start changing parts following wild guesses, get the fault codes read first and go from there.