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Thread: Being charged a small fortune so want to install myself UHF, Boost and Exhaust gauge

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    Advanced ImRobboToo's Avatar
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    Being charged a small fortune so want to install myself UHF, Boost and Exhaust gauge

    and more.

    I went down to the only Auto Sparky in town, and he said minimum of $750 to install Boost/Exhaust gauges, RedArc Dual battery, UHF and plug for fridge in back and Anderson plug (I think he was pissed that I bought all the hardware online). . I want to try this myself, but it comes down to finding live power under the dash for me. I'm pretty sure I can install both gauges myself, it is the issue of finding constant and on/off power for both gauges . . Is there a diagram or a walkthrough on here anywhere ??

    I have both the gauges in the Race Tech branding if that helps ?? Appreciate any help what so ever. . . Cheers
    Arguing with a Zealot, is only slightly easier than tunnelling through a mountain with your forehead !!!

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    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    You can get live power from your under dash fuse box. I have my UHF and somthiong else fed from these. This one from Jaycar but they are available on line from other places.
    http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Com...e-Tap/p/SF5125
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


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    If you use those "piggy back" doova's make sure you fit them the correct way around.

    The leg common to both fuses has to go in the supply side of the existing fuse holder.

    If you get it the other way around it means the current for both accessories flows thru the 'original fuse' and you can get some weird issues of random fuse blowing and one fuse takes out both accessories etc
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    Ok cool. forgive me if it sounds simple, and I probably already know the answer, but I would use 2 of these for power for say the UHF then ?? or would one of these do it for is power ?

    If that is constant power, for say Memory in the gauges for warning Light, what would I use for ignition on/off power ??
    Arguing with a Zealot, is only slightly easier than tunnelling through a mountain with your forehead !!!

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    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    One for each device. Like for my UHF I just removed the fuse for the radio and plugged this doova (thanks ET) in. Then you plug the original fuse into a spot on the doova. Then you have a second fuse feeding the red wire coming off the doova. This one you wire you connect to what you want to power, say your UHF and then put a fuse in connecting the power. You use one for each device you want to run and the return side is via earth or the chassis.
    For the gauges you would have to refer to the diagram that comes with them. If you need +ve to the gauge you should be able to pick it up from the fuse box like the other feed. Use a seperate piggy back for each device. You can get ignition from the fuses marked Acc or the cig lighter feed. Basicly anything that comes on when you turn the ign on.
    You can't pick up the dimable lights on the fuse box.
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


    And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    One for each device. Like for my UHF I just removed the fuse for the radio and plugged this doova (thanks ET) in. Then you plug the original fuse into a spot on the doova. Then you have a second fuse feeding the red wire coming off the doova. This one you wire you connect to what you want to power, say your UHF and then put a fuse in connecting the power. You use one for each device you want to run and the return side is via earth or the chassis.
    For the gauges you would have to refer to the diagram that comes with them. If you need +ve to the gauge you should be able to pick it up from the fuse box like the other feed. Use a seperate piggy back for each device. You can get ignition from the fuses marked Acc or the cig lighter feed. Basicly anything that comes on when you turn the ign on.
    You can't pick up the dimable lights on the fuse box.
    Of course, Earth. See I did know, but needed a jog.

    Thanks again, for your knowledge and insight. Will see how we go.


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    Arguing with a Zealot, is only slightly easier than tunnelling through a mountain with your forehead !!!

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    Do you know where you are plumbing your boost gauge into yet? I am looking at doing mine on my own soon but am used to petrol turbo and having spare ports on the intake manifold.

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    Patrol Freak Bigcol's Avatar
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    while buying stuff on line, or at your local auto place
    get some 8mm or 10mm ( I dont know this B&S crap in wiring size - Bachelor & Spinster is the only B&S I know)
    also get an 80Amp fuse and holder
    put the fuse holder on your 2nd battery (if you have one) and run the cable to the back of the car - put in your plug for fridge & whatever

    bobs your uncle

    I ran 10mm to a fuse box on my cargo barrier, then 8mm to both my fridges and other things

    I also ran 10mm cable to the rear for my Anderson plug for my Van
    Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come

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    Advanced ImRobboToo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shazlic View Post
    Do you know where you are plumbing your boost gauge into yet? I am looking at doing mine on my own soon but am used to petrol turbo and having spare ports on the intake manifold.
    When looking from front of engine bay, you plumb the vacuum pipe into the the top most, front most pipe coming out of the inter cooler. The images I have seen, have them coming out of the fist elbow you see. Don't ask for tech speak from me

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigcol View Post
    while buying stuff on line, or at your local auto place
    get some 8mm or 10mm ( I dont know this B&S crap in wiring size - Bachelor & Spinster is the only B&S I know)
    also get an 80Amp fuse and holder
    put the fuse holder on your 2nd battery (if you have one) and run the cable to the back of the car - put in your plug for fridge & whatever

    bobs your uncle

    I ran 10mm to a fuse box on my cargo barrier, then 8mm to both my fridges and other things

    I also ran 10mm cable to the rear for my Anderson plug for my Van
    Thanks Col. That would be quite easy one. I just need some guidance is all

    Now, for those that have installed. Couple of questions. From the image below, I have 3 wires.
    One from Sender to Gauge (that's the easy one) then I need power and and for the warning. The Power I'm guessing is the one with the exposed wires ?? Why 4 wires, and which is which ?? This is where a sparky would know what's what ........
    The other wire has connectors in each end ??

    Now in the diagram, the warning has a very small 2 pronged plug but none of the wires I have have them ??
    What's the small wire with connector each end ??

    You all said ask questions, so now you are stuck with me haha



    One more, in the diagram, it has the tube going to the Pressure Regulator ( I'm guessing this is the thing on the Turbo where the Dawes hooks into) and the other end the surge tank. The surge tank is the pipe I plumb into ??

    Now they aren't very thick walls on the pipe, so what's the best way to do this ?? Hole, tap it, screw something in with plumbing tape ??

    The hard thing, is we don't have a auto car place in my small 5000 peeps town, so I will have to work with what I have.

    Bare with me, I'll be done in a couple of weeks lol


    Tapping it out . . .
    Arguing with a Zealot, is only slightly easier than tunnelling through a mountain with your forehead !!!

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Install your dual battery system first IMO then run some decent cable down the back , fused of course.
    These redarc power outlets are great if you dont have a drawer system,
    For the UHF I'd run that off the aux battery as well if its needed as a home base radio
    .
    Thats your rear power needs sorted.
    You already have the boost gizmo .
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