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Thread: Robo's ride

  1. #41
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robo View Post
    Intercooler fitted.
    GTX2863R ordered.
    Injectors ordered.
    NPC 6x6 clutch on the way.
    Injector pump DC3 upgrade, soon as other parts fitted at home

    fit and tune look out,
    outta my way.

    humm looking at airbox, snorkle and engine mounts.
    Fun times mate.

    Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

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    Robo (11th September 2015)

  3. #42
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    New gen water pump on the way.
    Superior Engineering captive engine mt arrived.
    Rear gen main seal arrived.
    NPC 6x6 clutch arrived.
    just waiting on turbo kit now.

    had a new carrier and fork for clutch for a short while
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

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    rusty_nail (17th September 2015)

  5. #43
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    Turbo kit just turned up, with a new set of injectors.

    now the down side, going away next week.
    no time to install new clutch and break it in, in time to, fit kit and tune beforehand.
    arrh,
    nar, heads up, future looking bright for Pat.
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  6. #44
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    The days finally here.
    Removing engine to fit new ---

    Front and rear main seals.
    clutch, water pump.
    humm was going to fit new turbo also, but new clutch needs time to bed in-
    "before power up" might leave that for later I think.
    various other jobs on the list.
    port exh manifold, injectors , thermostat,
    new alternator,old one just dropped voltage 2 days ago.

    F@##@k I just broke my good reading glasses,
    The harmonic balancer nut measures 55 mm is that correct ??.
    my set stops at 50mm, need a new socket I guess.
    Doing just about all the work alone, any tips ??????.
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  7. #45
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    Yes 55mm for crank nut.

    If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.

    Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.
    Last edited by nissannewby; 13th October 2015 at 09:26 PM.

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    BigRAWesty (30th October 2015), Robo (15th October 2015)

  9. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    Yes 55mm for crank nut.

    If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.

    Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.
    Thanks,
    while its out, was going to remove the sump, make sure no surprises in there, general clean up .
    you called it, but I wasn't sure on the clutch and bedding it as the new turbo afr would be out of wack.
    drive it easy for a short while, talked me into it , didn't really want to do it later any way.
    f/wheel weight,
    Smoother don't ya mean,more responsive?.
    weight watchers how much do ya recon off ?
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  10. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    Yes 55mm for crank nut.

    If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.

    Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.
    Gasket or silicon for the sump ??
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  11. #48
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    Yes more responsive which will make it feel smoother to drive. If you can aim for 1.5-2kg much more than this will require significant machine time. Also get he clutch and flywheel assembly balanced.

    I use a gasket with a smear of loctite 515.

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    Robo (15th October 2015)

  13. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    Yes more responsive which will make it feel smoother to drive. If you can aim for 1.5-2kg much more than this will require significant machine time. Also get he clutch and flywheel assembly balanced.

    I use a gasket with a smear of loctite 515.
    Thankyou Bro
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

  14. #50
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    Had a few hick ups visitors and what not.
    Engines out and on stand ready for attention.
    bit busy this week, see what happens!.
    Here's some pics of how to go about it with limited room under a car port and still remain able to roll car out of the way etc.
    Its so low the engine hoist touches the tie rod bar but just slides under my g/box support bracket.
    The box support I made last time I had GQ TB engine out, it'a a straight bolt up for GU also.
    Ya don't have to worry about a jack under car.
    I made a similar bracket for my GTR except with tabs welded on, then able to bolt up to g/box for real support,then tilt tray car 100k to work shop.
    Using the steel wheels also gives more room to move hoist around and allows it in closer & in a retracted position for a larger swl , just that bit safer.
    Ya have to have alot done before you lower the car this much but it's worth the effort.
    DSCF6936.JPGDSCF6938.JPGDSCF6941.JPG
    Last edited by Robo; 15th October 2015 at 03:07 PM.
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

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    threedogs (15th October 2015)

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