Rockets Wagon

[Rocket55]

This is the stuff I used Mudski, only in Saturn Black. I've had good success with it in the past on things like wheels, sliders, brackets etc. so I'm hoping it'll go ok this time. I'm just not sure if it'll stick to that electro coating stuff. Time will tell I'm guessing.

[Hodge]

That is also the stuff I used for everything. Used it on my last patrol to refurbish a rusty tow bar assembly. Came up almost brand new and stayed that for after many trips and bashings! Good stuff. This POR15 stuff is however, a much harder, thicker compound and dries and solidifies super quick...

[Rocket55]

Came up a treat Hodge. The only thing that annoys me with Rust Guard is the long drying time, 24hrs before it starts to get any real strength. You can hurry it along a bit with a heat gun but not much. You can get it touch dry with a heat gun, but you'll still leave finger prints in it if your not careful.

If this POR15 stuff is quick drying and tough then it sounds like a winner.

[Hodge]

Yeh mate. Especially in winter , takes forever .

[mudski]

This is the stuff I used Mudski, only in Saturn Black. I've had good success with it in the past on things like wheels, sliders, brackets etc. so I'm hoping it'll go ok this time. I'm just not sure if it'll stick to that electro coating stuff. Time will tell I'm guessing.

Yeah thats one of the best spray paints I have used too. Hodge found out how much POR15 is today. $115 or something for 1ltr. My advice though is to by 500ml. As you wont use it all and it does get a rock solid crust on top of about 3mm or so thick. Even with the lid shut good. Also, go to Bunnings and buy a bunch of their cheapest brushes. You will destroy one everytime you use this stuff.

[Rocket55]

Currently in 2 minds at the moment. I'm about to order a stack of go fast bits for my wagon that will see me fry standard clutches. I'm virtually set on a UFI clutch that will hold 800Nm and 300+ rwhp, not that I want to go this far. But I will be venturing into the lower area of where some have been having crank failure issues under certain conditions.

From what I've learnt and other have worked out is that the crank failures are due to harmonics as opposed to too much power. The increase in power simply lets the engine operate freely in the rev range that generates these harmonics around 3,800rpm give or take.

It appears as though there are a couple of things which influence this.

1) reducing the weight of the flywheel/clutch assembly seems to help.
2) flywheel material that helps absorb harmonics verses reflecting them back along the crank seems to help
3) upgrading the dampener on the front of the crank seems to help.

As a result you can get these wonderful sexy looking aluminium flywheels that are approx 6.5kg lighter than the standard cast item. They feature a bolt in wear plate. They're not cheap and would ordinarily fall into the "do it later" category, but I don't fancy pulling the gearbox out multiple times. I'm looking at it from an engine insurance perspective.

Thoughts?

[mudski]

Under the advise from my mechanic we are using the OEM flywheel and the Clutch Industries 4Terrain clutch. And we are aiming for 160rwkw, or there abouts. This mechanic is renowned for his work down here, and does a heap of comp trucks, drag and high performance street cars, so I can only assume he's on the money. Bloody hope he is, lol.

Just for reference Rod. As you may be putting money into something thats not really needed.

[Winnie]

Currently in 2 minds at the moment. I'm about to order a stack of go fast bits for my wagon that will see me fry standard clutches. I'm virtually set on a UFI clutch that will hold 800Nm and 300+ rwhp, not that I want to go this far. But I will be venturing into the lower area of where some have been having crank failure issues under certain conditions.

From what I've learnt and other have worked out is that the crank failures are due to harmonics as opposed to too much power. The increase in power simply lets the engine operate freely in the rev range that generates these harmonics around 3,800rpm give or take.

It appears as though there are a couple of things which influence this.

1) reducing the weight of the flywheel/clutch assembly seems to help.
2) flywheel material that helps absorb harmonics verses reflecting them back along the crank seems to help
3) upgrading the dampener on the front of the crank seems to help.

As a result you can get these wonderful sexy looking aluminium flywheels that are approx 6.5kg lighter than the standard cast item. They feature a bolt in wear plate. They're not cheap and would ordinarily fall into the "do it later" category, but I don't fancy pulling the gearbox out multiple times. I'm looking at it from an engine insurance perspective.

Thoughts?

This flywheel is only 8.3Kg which is a massive saving on the standard flywheel but yeah they do cost a bit.

This quote is from Ben-e-boy on this exact flywheel...
"It will rev freely. It smooths out the vibrations from the odd firing pattern that a TD has. Also should halp a little bit to save the crank."

You will have less power losses through the drivetrain as well. It would probably not make an enormous difference on it's own but a combination of this with some other small gains will equal one huge gain.
Are you aiming for around 200kW?

[rusty_nail]

yep i would be taking a big look at bennys thread, he has seriously done a lot of work and research into working his motor(and has done it) his truck is an absolute weapon

[Rocket55]

I'm undecided about it, just canvassing some opinions. I'll check out Bennys thread.

In the inexact science that this all is (no actually they're pretty good at hitting target numbers) I'm looking at around 230rwhp or 175rwkw.