As a matter of interest,
does anyone know if
it is possible to source
the newer CRD block
and fit the DI head and
other components?
As a matter of interest,
does anyone know if
it is possible to source
the newer CRD block
and fit the DI head and
other components?
Last edited by mudnut; 8th July 2015 at 01:28 AM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
I don't see why not mudnut. As it is a newer engine meeting new emission rules. You'd have to bring over a few things from the CRD donor. Like ECU,intercooler... I'm sure theres a few more things.
2005 TD42TI
mudnut (8th July 2015)
Sorry for the hijack.
Pardon my ignorance,
but why, would you need
the ECU if you used the
DI engine control?
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
Well the ECU controls other functions. For example the boost through the vaccum solenoid. It also controls the aircon clutch, disengages it when engine is over certain temperature or under certain load.
On a CRD it controls much more. Controls the injection pump, EGR valve, etc...
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but without ECU these grenades cannot function.
2005 TD42TI
If only using the crd block but the Di head then old ecu is needed. If planning to run as crd then new ecu is needed. But I an not entirely sure if both blocks are 100% compatible.
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
So if Mr Nissan is still
making the CRD block,
then it would probably
be the best way to go
if you aren't keen on
acquiring a reco DI
wouldn't it? Has it
been done before?
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
I reckon it would cost an astronomical fortune to buy a new block / engine from Nissan. I haven't priced one up or heard about ones pricing but, if general pricing from nissan parts is anything to go by, well I'd love to see this figure.
2005 TD42TI
mudnut (8th July 2015)
mudnut (8th July 2015)
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
Hodge (8th July 2015)
Jono6974. I will probably regret typing this as I am about to do a Simpson desert crossing but mine has just clicked over 200k and still going strong. I fitted the catch can, boost limiter (dawes value) and boost gauge at 140k or so, and have recently 198k fitted a secondary fuel filter and lift pump.
One word of advice get your intercooler off and clean it out if you haven't (decreased or unleaded petrol, making sure to rinse and dry thoroughly before refitting). Also check/clean the intake (butterfly) vent just after it. You will be surprised how dirty it is from the egr.
Scotty B | Take it Off Road or Take it Back
3.0L GUIV 2005 - TIG Welded Intercooler, NADS, Redarc Dual Battery, Additional rear power socket, 2" Lift (Ironman constant load foam cell), Electronic Trailer Brake Controller, Steel Bullbar, 12,000lb Winch, UHF