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Thread: Losing boost..

  1. #51
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullet_hunter View Post
    Cheers mudski... Will have a play around with the needle valve and see what happens.. It's currently more closed than open... Not to sure what's going on with the Dawes valve.. All looks good but I've got it wound right in til there's no more thread... It drives ok but it feels like as soon as it reaches 15psi it maxes out.. Like u can put your foot right to the floor and nothing happens? Feels like it's not only restricting boost but overall power... Thanks for the offer with the larger Id hose... If I can't get it set up how I want it.. Il be getn a diesel smart actuator set to 24psi... Herd they go alright... Also looks at one of there smart xt modules.... At e moment my egts are really low... And the 250 mark...
    Dont bother about the DS actuator yet mate. I read on the other forum a few with it and reckon it was shite. Dunno how true that is though...When your running higher boost levels you need the needle valve shut almost right off. Mine was only open just the slightest bit, when running 25psi. Open a smidge too much and it was crap to drive. just send me your details bud. I'll get it off tomorrow and you will have it by early next week...You got nothing to lose...

    @ John. If the vacuum hose was collapsing, he would see very erratic boost rises. As shutting off the needle valve does this, which is on the vacuum side...

    Also try this. As Roofy had a similar issue too from memory. The T fitting in the top of the Dawes was leaking on his. See if yours is sealed properly. If not or unsure, try so seal it up with some good glue or sometihng, just incase its got a leak from there. I'm starting to run out of idea's.
    turbo's not pumping any oil is it? Impellor still nice and tight?
    Last edited by mudski; 1st July 2015 at 05:11 PM.

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    mullet_hunter (1st July 2015)

  3. #52
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    Had another play around wiv it.. still having trouble trying to set it right... noticed it went a bit better if i pissd of the green vacume filter... does anyone knw which ports go to what for standard configeration at the boost solanoid... tryna figer out if its my dawes valve why i cnt get it to boost over 18-psi... also the more i open up the needle valve the less boost i see on the gauge.. if its opened up then it will bearly see 3 psi? Heres a pic of boost solanoid.. what goes where frm left to right.. in standard configeration...thnx


    ForumRunner_20150702_144929.png

  4. #53
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Yes that correct. The more you open the needle valve, your boost will drop also. Close off the needle valve right shut mate. Then only open it a little and see. Like i said. High boost levels, you will need to have the needle valve almost closed.

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  5. #54
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    ye thats how I've had it set. closed then open it till arm drops away then close it till arm jus touches grub screw... hay mark do u knw what hoses go to what ports for standard setup?

  6. #55
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Here is a diagram (by Chaz Yellowfoot) of the standard set up.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Rock Trol; 2nd July 2015 at 07:50 PM.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

  7. #56
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Actually, looking at it now I think you are running a hose straight off the Air Filter Resonator. That might be the problem. Set it up as in the diagram and give it a go.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

  8. #57
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    I thought the needle valve comes off resonator for clean air supply? Tryed in that configuration and the boost gauge was spiking.. tryed it back wiv inline filter off vac line and needle plumbd into resonator and still spiking but feels better to drive.. lol.. things doing my head in.. and why and hw can my boost spike if ive got a dawes valve? Just wana triple chek something. The ball bearing goes into the backside of dawes valve then spring then screw threads back togther... and i have needle valve setup wiv the line from resonator to the side were theres a 18 etched into it.. so on the top blue nob right is tighten and left is losen... either in missing something or its not working like its suppose to. Or both. Lol...

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  9. #58
    Expert mullet_hunter's Avatar
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    uploadfromtaptalk1435831157426.jpeg

    Anyone knw what goes where in standard form.. i cnt remembr... one frm turbo actuator and ones frm vac pump n then other goes frm the solanoid back to resonator air box? Just cnt member which goes to which?


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    Last edited by mullet_hunter; 2nd July 2015 at 08:32 PM.

  10. #59
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    The pic rock trol posted, go by this for the standard setup. Its just the dawes in that pic with no needle valve, so it basically Tees in the line from the controlerto turbo.
    When you put a needle valve in the mix. One end on the needle valve goes from the air resonator box and the other to the small T. And then so on.
    Going by your pic MH your is setup right.

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  12. #60
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mullet_hunter View Post
    ye thats how I've had it set. closed then open it till arm drops away then close it till arm jus touches grub screw... hay mark do u knw what hoses go to what ports for standard setup?
    The arm on the turbo actuator adjuster has a painted section on it. So you know if someone has adjusted it. Can you tell if yours has been played with?

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