Oil light comes on.

[jono6974]

Hi,
The oil light came on about a month ago. I stopped the vehicle, checked the oil, but all seemed fine.
Started and all was well until today. Had been driving for a bout an hour when the oil light came on again.
Stopped, checked all Ok, level fine etc. Started car, no oil light.
This happened 2 more times on the way home.
The engine sounds normal and oil level is fine.
I am suspecting a faulty oil pressure switch. The car is a 2005 3.0 tdi GU.

Has anyone else experienced these symptoms? If it was a oil pressure problem, I am sure I would have heard the engine note change
as things dried out. The fact it goes away by switching off and on also makes me think pressure switch.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Rumcajs]

Hi,
The oil light came on about a month ago. I stopped the vehicle, checked the oil, but all seemed fine.
Started and all was well until today. Had been driving for a bout an hour when the oil light came on again.
Stopped, checked all Ok, level fine etc. Started car, no oil light.
This happened 2 more times on the way home.
The engine sounds normal and oil level is fine.
I am suspecting a faulty oil pressure switch. The car is a 2005 3.0 tdi GU.

Has anyone else experienced these symptoms? If it was a oil pressure problem, I am sure I would have heard the engine note change
as things dried out. The fact it goes away by switching off and on also makes me think pressure switch.

Any advice would be appreciated.

This issue is very common on series 4.

There are 2 pressure switches and a resistor. Nissan's fix is to replace all of them 2x senders @$35 each and $139 resistor. Faulty batch of switches, they chatter and wear the contacts. Nissan has issued a service bulletin fix for it some time ago for vehicles affected in certain ranges of VIN.....

It is fairly simple to to diagnose which one is a culprit if you have a multimeter as both senders break the ground when engine is running and oil pressure is up with single contact/wire each.

Oil_pressure_switches.jpg
Oil_pressure_sensors_resistor.JPGOil_pressure_switches_circuit_dual.jpg

Also check this guide out as to which spanner/socket to use ==> zd30 oil sender socket size

The sender above starter motor is a bastard to get to and beware of using too much force to undo as you can loose the step off banjo union (which allows the sender to face downwards kinda "L" of the block it is attached to, it is not shown on the drawing above but it helps to access it from underneath just between the starter motor and the engine block) it will/can drip oil slowly if disturbed, to fix that, the starter motor removal is required which is another face palm moment.
Be aware that senders are not identical either although they almost look the same except one has a green band around is connector housing to tell them apart.
P/N should be:
R/H side (above starter motor) 25240-2X901
L/H side (under the turbo next to oil filter) 25240-8996E
Resistor (behind plastic trim next to acc pedal) 24556-VC30C

As a side note: oil pressure gauge installation can be cheaper (sometimes)

Regards


Good luck

[Yendor]

My old GU series 4 did this. I just disconnected the resistor and the light in the dash still worked normally.

[nissannewby]

The 2 part numbers listed here for switches can be had for about $10 us each.

[jono6974]

Thank you for the swift replies.
The diagrams supplied are a great help Rumcajs
I was not planning on fitting a pressure gauge, but think it might be a good idea.
The list is growing rapidly, just need to find some time for all the mods required.