My understanding is that glazed rotors don't need to be machined, only scuffed up to remove the glaze.
As for bleeding brakes, I used to hate bleeding brakes, but now do gravity bleeding which is dead easy, and, the only method so far that has given the patrol a solid pedal. Put a hose on the bleed nipple, other end into a jar and crack it open. Have the reservoir open so it can be topped up, but about 10 mins per corner(including proportioning valve) is all it needs. If you have a clear hose, this makes it easier to see if you still have air inside. I even tried gently tapping the caliper while the fluid was dripping out and I did manage to make a little more air escape.
If the slides are sticking, the fronts are easy to remove and clean. Use an appropriately sized drill bit by hand to clean the holes that the sliders sit in and re grease.
I did try cv grease on the pins at one point, but this stuff dried up within a few months and was useless. Only used it because I was worried about the incorrect grease eating away at the rubber seals. I've since just used wheel bearing grease. Rubbers are still fine months later and the pins don't dry up anymore. And the brakes are amazing.
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