20150326_202818.jpg20150326_202825.jpg20150326_202917.jpg
Interesting about the dawes valve being upside down I have moved it and included a picture to ensure it is more correct.
Also the other side of the intake showing the needle valve.
You are correct the clear hose does go to the boost guage
Also I see your point about the plastic Y piece I will go get a brass one on the weekend.
Last edited by Dinger; 26th March 2015 at 08:15 PM.
The black hose on the needle valve. Is this going into the single port next to the vacuum control solenoid? Looks like it is... Your only getting 5psi now? what happens when you screw the Dawes in more?Originally Posted by Dinger
Interesting about the dawes valve being upside down I have moved it and included a picture to ensure it is more correct.
Also the other side of the intake showing the needle valve.
You are correct the clear hose does go to the boost guage
Also I see your point about the plastic Y piece I will go get a brass one on the weekend.
With the car running, pinch the blue hose on the needle valve and tell me if the rod on the actuator moves upwards. It should, then tell me how far it drops down. This maybe hard to tell. Ideally as a starting point you want it to drop around 10mm.
Dinger (27th March 2015)
The hose with the green dampener on it. Where this going? Into the small T which the needle valve and dawes go to?
Correct the hose goes to resonator next to the solenoid.
I will do you suggest with crimping the blue hose tomorrow and let you know.
I have not had any movement in the actuator rod to date. But will give it a try and let you know.
If the actuator is stuffed it looks like it would be any easy switch with a new one?
Correct to the t piece
If no movement, wind you Dawes in further and try again. You can buy the actuators off the shelf. They are expensive, under $100 if i'm right. Never fitted one but I'd assume theres not much to it. You would just have to measure the rod length on your now and make sure its the same on the new unit.
Well I sucked it up and replaced the actuator. I now get all indications that the plumbing on the dawes/needle valves are correct. The actuator dropped when I opened the needle valve staight away.
Took the beast for a drive all good no limp mode at all. I am calling it phase 1 complete. I do get high egts close to 450c at 100km and 300c at 60km. And I am unable to pick up any boost reading. Although that I am sure is just a gauge problem
now are you going to increase boost a bit more to lower the egts,
I put more boost into mine and egts stayed at 300 then I fiddled
with the needle to slow up the spool and egts went up again.
starting to think like RUMJAS that the needle valve near on closed is the spot to set it.
you could set your boost with the NV closed and go from there thats what Im toying with ATM
Last edited by threedogs; 28th March 2015 at 12:55 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Cheers 3dogs. So the more closed the needle the lower the egts?
Running 16 psi at 3000rpm. Needle is only two turns from closed. Dawes only has about 4 threads left so I will play with that a little to get it spot on.
Im not saying the more closed the NV is the lower egts as all are different,
Im going to put as much boost as I can as I dont think mine will go into limp mode
if I get about 15 psi at 110kph that would be ok for me.
I dont like it when just off idle if I touch the throttle it'll go to 15psi
under moderate throttle input, its just a matter of playing around till you
find the "happy spot" lol,
Im going to keep 2 spanners and the NV allen key in the patrol and adjust and write down
any adjustments I do.
Last edited by threedogs; 28th March 2015 at 01:02 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote