GU ZD30 DI NADS Help

[lil regy]

Acceleration video

[lil regy]

Cruising at 100 vid

[threedogs]

I would probable put a few more pounds of boost in it. Maybe spike at 17psi
What are the temps in "F" or "C",,, If they are Centigrade figures it will support
my more boost required comment ,,,Can tell its an auto too.

I think Mark needs to write up a thread of what is expected from the needle valve
in english, sometimes a lot is lost in translation

Do you have all three blocked at the air solenoid near the airbox

[mudski]

Thats the old style Dawes you have too, without the new heavy spring, I believe. Have you changed the spring? Now going by the vids, without sound on, your not getting boost, even when you floor it. So it could be A : Wind in the Dawes more, B : Wind in the needle valve more, C : Your needle valve is cactus and leaking, or D : you have a boost leak. E : Your Maf is playing up
D is imperative that there is no boost leaks. If you do it will be near impossible to reach and hold boost.
Try this and start from scratch...
Start the car up and wind your needle valve right in to shut off the vacuum flow, you will notice the rod on the VNT arm actuator will go upwards and into the diaphragm. Then will still running open up the needle valve until the rod drops around 10mm. Take the car for a spin. If your boost climbs real slow, wind the needle valve in a little more, if it climbs real fast, open it up. Depending on what brand needle valve you have will depend on how much you need to adjust the needle valve, most of the cheapies need a few turns as they don't have a fine adjustment which is needed for this process. Plus they are prone to leaking too, which is a waste of time to try and adjust then.
Sorry lets get back on track... If the boost climbs good but you don't have the desired boost level (too low boost), wind in the Dawes until you do. Or wind out if its too high. Once the boost level is set, you shouldn't need to touch the Dawes again, only the needle valve you need to fine tune. This can be hit and miss, I have done a few cars now and on some it was pot luck and got it straight away, and some weren't so lucky and it took a few hours to get it right.
With setting your cruise boost too, its all relative to what max boost you run. Everyone says 10psi at 100k's. Yes this is good for a 15-18psi max boost. Anything higher and you need to go higher on your cruise boost because if you don't, your EGT's will be shite, your boost rise will be too slow and you will have power loss. I run 25psi max boost and it sits around 16psi on the highway, give or take a psi. EGT's at 100K's on a flat road will be around 220c. I tried to lower my cruise boost by opening the needle valve and all I did was make my EGTs hit the mid 300's and the car went like a sack of you know what.
The MAF can only be resolved with another known working unit. I had a fella come to me after fitting the NAD's and the car just wouldn't go. I took it for a spin and from around 1500rpm it was guttless, NOT limp mode, just like I was towing something real heavy. We tried the maf from my car and all was good! There is s thread somewhere on how to test the voltages of your maf with a DMM... If you can get a hold of another MAF to try, then do it, just to take it out of the equation.
But don't just look at your intake system on the car for boost leaks and say she's right mate. Not saying that you do/ are, I have been the end of the blame stick from many people who don't check this properly and say its kit they bought is faulty. Thoroughly check, by removing the IC, if theres any oil on the underside, if more than likely leaking, if there isn't, seal it up and dunk it in water and get some air into it with a bike pump to see if any bubbles come out. If there isn't, check all hoses for splits or cracks, if there isn't, make sure all hose clamps are good and can be done up tight, effing tight, if they can? Your intake system is good to go sir!

Hope this helps.

[threedogs]

another point I'd like to make is use constant pressure hose clamps, they are a bit more $$$ wise but worth it IMO
OE clamps are shite