Thanks all. Had a chat with ET at the last club meeting and based on the discussion I need to do a bit more adjustment on the needle valve. As soon as I get back from this work trip going to work getting to adjusted correctly.
Thanks all. Had a chat with ET at the last club meeting and based on the discussion I need to do a bit more adjustment on the needle valve. As soon as I get back from this work trip going to work getting to adjusted correctly.
Stropp (2nd December 2014)
I just sussed mine out I believe. I closed the needle valve the opened it untill the turbo acuator arm moved and hit the end off its stroke then a bit back of it. Then set the dawes valve to 15psi. Sweet spot is 10psi under 2000rpm and 15psi at 3000rpm. To achieve that you play with needle valve little bit by little bit.
I have the same issue, AND I had the Dawes and needle valve working what seemed ok. Issue came after the plate was installed.
It seems the boost must be arriving too early and too hard. Do I adjust the needle valve SLOWLY and see what happens.
My high boost Dawes is about 20psi--too high methinks. Comments please
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
Your running a twin Dawes setup. I would go higher. Mines been running at 25psi for well over 12month now.... But thats how I have it. Some would say its too high. Some not. But it goes alright, for a ZD, and have had zero issues with it so far, touch wood...
whats your low boost set at?
Hi Mudski (and all) I have low boost at 11 psi--a little higher than I would like, but a bitch to get to for a 1 pound reduction, and no limp issues. High has been 22, then 17 then 20. At 17 no issue, at 22 limp easily, at 20 limp at high end--4000 rpm.
I did open the needle valve 2/10 of a turn (it has 10 indicator marks), and that stopped limp at 17, still get it at 20. I will try 18 psi, and maybe one more "click open on the needle valve and report back. I will try needle valve first.
This is very much "try and test", but the truck certainly benefits from fitted needle valve--lag basically gone and spool rate maybe a little quick.
BTW my electronic switch failed (my bad) so I have manual high or low.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
mudski (1st March 2015)
Save your coin and get the HPD high flow maf housing and air box lid. No need to worry about limp mode ever again. My boost gauge is to 30psi. Just as a test I wound the dawes right in. I had the needle on the boost gauge off the clock and I still saw no limp mode. But the engine light came on... jeez it went though.
Dr Gary (2nd March 2015)
... are their Boost Controllers any good Mudski?
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.