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Thread: Fuel pump pulsing with indicators

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    Expert mjr350's Avatar
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    Fuel pump pulsing with indicators

    Hi Guys
    Yesterday I hooked a trailer for the first time to the GU and tested the lights as you do. I had the hazards on and I could hear that the fuel pump hiss would drop down under the load of the indicators. Is this normal? I know I had 2 extra globes on the trailer running but would it really effect it that much.
    If anyone regularly uses a trailer, could you possibly let me know if the same happens.

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    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    I assume that the trailer lights were working OK? If they were not you may have a short to earth on the trailer. Being a GU ( yes I have one as well) I'd be checking that the fuel pump earth is not high resistance as GU's can have earth problems. In a nutshell, it sounds like the earth through the lights is better than the one on the fuel pump.
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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    I have a GQ, but I added an extra earth wire from the body to the chassis (Bumper) and it has stopped all the weird problems which occurred when I hooked up my trailer. I also cleaned all of the connectors at the fuel tank, and sprayed them with WD40, and have had no further problems. As an extra insurance, I drilled and tapped a small hole and installed a small set screw onto the front of the trailer's draw bar, and used that as an earthing point for the trailers loom.
    Last edited by mudnut; 19th October 2014 at 12:28 PM.
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    Expert mjr350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    I assume that the trailer lights were working OK? If they were not you may have a short to earth on the trailer. Being a GU ( yes I have one as well) I'd be checking that the fuel pump earth is not high resistance as GU's can have earth problems. In a nutshell, it sounds like the earth through the lights is better than the one on the fuel pump.
    Yep the lights all worked. Ill have a look at the earth when I get a chance.

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    Run an earth lead from the negative battery post to your chassis.

    This should also help with your remote issue.

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    Expert mjr350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
    Run an earth lead from the negative battery post to your chassis.

    This should also help with your remote issue.
    Ive got a few heavy leads from when I relocated a battery to under the tray of my vy tonner so ill run a few.
    As far as the remote goes, I swapped the system out for an after market one and I can now unlock it from across a car park. Interestingly the nissan manual states that the remote control won't work any more than a meter away.
    Last edited by mjr350; 22nd October 2014 at 12:53 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjr350 View Post
    Ive got a few heavy leads from when I relocated a battery to under the tray of my vy tonner so ill run a few.
    As far as the remote goes, I swapped the system out for an after market one and I can now unlock it from across a car park. Interestingly the nissan manual states that the remote control won't work any more than a meter away.
    Yep those leads will do the trick. Here's where Nissan recommends fitting the earth strap.

    All 3 of my GUs the remote has easily worked at 10 meters.

    Just be careful you don't accidentally unlock the patrol from the other side of the car park when you put the keys in your pocket.
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  8. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Yendor For This Useful Post:

    dads tractor (22nd October 2014), mjr350 (23rd October 2014), Stropp (22nd October 2014)

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    Expert mjr350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
    Yep those leads will do the trick. Here's where Nissan recommends fitting the earth strap.

    All 3 of my GUs the remote has easily worked at 10 meters.

    Just be careful you don't accidentally unlock the patrol from the other side of the car park when you put the keys in your pocket.
    Ive got it setup with re-lock so it will automatically re-lock after 45 seconds if no doors are opened.

    Just put the extra earth strap from chassis to body and the problem is still there with hazards on. Its obviously not isolated to the trailer but now many times do you have hazards on with your head near the fuel pump.
    Pump earth time now

    EDIT

    Fuel pump earth is spot on, no resistance at all

    Here's a vid of the noise its making with the hazards on.

    http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...023_123519.mp4
    Last edited by mjr350; 23rd October 2014 at 01:08 PM.

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    Sorry I'm not picking the noise in the video. Does it still do it if you bring the engine up to a fast idle?

    The blue terminal on the far left in your video looks burnt, is it?

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    Expert mjr350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
    Sorry I'm not picking the noise in the video. Does it still do it if you bring the engine up to a fast idle?

    The blue terminal on the far left in your video looks burnt, is it?
    You should be able to hear a high low siren noise in the pump hiss. I can through my speakers.
    The terminal has some sort of paint on it. I thought the same but there's slight overspray on the one next to it.
    I did a test today and hit the dual battery connect switch (switch that connects both crank and AUX together) while the hazards were going during the initial ignition on prime and the pump speed increased dramatically but still had the high / low with the hazards on.
    Im lost, maybe they all do it??

    EDIT

    Just tried it with my VY SV8 One Tonner and VP and both did the same thing. Stock pumps must not be strong enough to resist a little external load. Plus the pressure reg is there to combat fluctuations anyway.
    Thanks guys but i don't think its much of an issue now.
    Last edited by mjr350; 23rd October 2014 at 06:45 PM.

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