Wiring Fridge,Compressor,Fusebank

[Smoothrun]

Hi All

Im looking at wiring up my GU now that I have my Aux Batt set up, Ive got a few options and not exactly sure what the best way is to go about it, my Autoelec knowledge is minimal to say the most, so thought it would be a better idea to get some feedback from those with more experience than myself,

Heres what im considering all from Aux Battery

6B&S Run + & - from Battery through firewall to a 6,8 or 10 space Fuse bank with a 40A inline fuse next to Battery, Fuse bank mounted either under dash or preferably to rear drawer wing space.

Compressor
ARB CKMA12 from fuse bank 6B&S run + & - to compressor using 40A inline fuse, also mounted in rear wing.

Fridge
Engel, Do I just run it seperately to the fuse bank using a inline fuse, if so what size considering the fridge runs about 1.2A to 2.4 A, understanding they have a thermal fuse I just cant find in my searching a fuse size or more importantly a best option to take when wiring up a fridge. Im also considering a switch to turn on and off, but just as easy to pull it out during the week whilst at work, and plug it in when I do me trips

All this said and done Ive also heard that some people run an earth from the chassis as there have been issues in the past due to Battery earth being connected to the body only, as stated above im looking at running a Negative from the Battery to the fuse bank in the back, would this be enough or have some of you taken the Chassis approach also.

I hope I havent put too much into a single post but it is all relative and im hoping to find a best option and have a go at it myself.

Appreciate any input you may have,

Cheers

[MudRunnerTD]

I would run it straight to the back and install your sub board in the rear. Put a fusable link under the bonnet for the wire running to the back. I have run a single 35mm2 wire to the rear as the supply as there is then no voltage drop and I can run whatever I like. Including the option to wire up an Anderson plug at the tow bar for the camper trailer charge.

Swap your fridge plug for an Anderson Plug.

I have a fridge in the back permanently. I have a second Anderson plug outlet for a second fridge when touring if I want it.
I have an Anderson plug to hook up a 1500w pure sine wave inverter in the rear too.
I have an ARB hi output compressor permanently wired.
I have running water via a 12v pump at the rear.
I have a rear work light
I have multiple led lights to the rear.
I also have multiple charging point a at the back for when at camp to run lead lights or to charge the iPad etc.

The sub board works great and there is no voltage drop.

Earth you second battery to your motor and your chassis. Earth your sub board to the chassis.

That's what I have done and works a great.

[sooty_10]

I have very similar to what you suggested, I ran 6 B&S twin core from aux batt to a 75amp circuit breaker just at the battery then to an engine bay fuse block, it then continues through the firewall and down to rear and then have a fuse block in the rear side wing of my drawers, also have my compressor in the side wing. I run my fridge, lift pump, rear lights etc all from that fuse block. The compressor has it's own inline 40amp fuse. I have some switches up front and used 7 core trailer wire to run it to the rear where I have relays to control fridge, compressor etc.

[lucus30]

I have very similar to what you suggested, I ran 6 B&S twin core from aux batt to a 75amp circuit breaker just at the battery then to an engine bay fuse block, it then continues through the firewall and down to rear and then have a fuse block in the rear side wing of my drawers, also have my compressor in the side wing. I run my fridge, lift pump, rear lights etc all from that fuse block. The compressor has it's own inline 40amp fuse. I have some switches up front and used 7 core trailer wire to run it to the rear where I have relays to control fridge, compressor etc.

I should have looked at your setup as I want to do something similar. How did you split off the 6 b&s? Did you use a bus bar or something ?

[Cuppa]

Do as you’ve suggested, plus add MR’s suggestion for an Anderson plug on fridge.

I’m not sure what current your compressor draws, but if it’s anywhere close to 40 amps, then putting a higher amp fuse at the battery would be worthwhile otherwise you run the possibility of blowing it if you ever run something else at the same time as the compressor.

Unless you have a very small & super efficient fridge it will most likely draw more than you suggest. Your figures look more like ‘average’ draw to me (i.e. taking into account the off cycle, & averaging total use throughout the 24 hour period & dividing by 24. I’d guess when running 3.5amps to 5 amps would be more likely. A 7.5 amp fuse should suffice. If it blows on start up, put a 10 amp one in.

Something worth considering is to use circuit breakers rather than fuses. Over time & in mobile situations like ours where vibration is part of the equation they are safer & more reliable. Lots of instances of blade fuses becoming high resistance over time & melting, with fire being a potential result. I don’t know why but this seems more common in the multi fuse blocks. Loads of people will tell you that they have used these multi fuse blocks without problem.... and they have, but I have seen & heard of plenty occasions where catastrophe or near catastrophe has occurred. (From melted fuses & wire insulation to complete loss of vehicle). Circuit breakers come in a number of ‘flavours’. I like the type that are switched, as they double as circuit protection & on/off switches, & don’t require spare fuses to be carried.

If you want to stick with fuses then this sort of ‘resettable fuse’ gives a little extra convenience. They are available in a variety of amperage values.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-557...item33925c8f3c

[the evil twin]

No way I would change the Engel fridge plug for Anderson.

The Engel factory plugs are much better than any others on the market even including Anderson style so I strongly recommend you get an Engel socket and wire that in.
You simply screw off the backshell on the ciggy plug adapter "nose" on the factory Engel plug and that leaves a two pin plug and backshell.
Push the plug into the Engel socket and the backshell then screws onto the Engel socket and the plug will not come out.

I convert all my 12 volt fridges (reccy or work) to Engel plugs for that reason

If you ever need to use the Fridge elsewhere simply screw the Cigg Plug adapter back on to the Engel plug.
It is more likely the other source you will want to use is a Ciggy Plug than another Anderson

[Cuppa]

I’ll bow to ET’s experience on the fridge plug. I’ve never had an Engel, & assumed that all fridge plugs were much the same. For those folk who do change their (non engel) fridge plugs to Anderson plugs I suppose it may be a wise move to make up a short adaptor cable with an anderson on one end & a ciggy type plug on the other if there is a possibility of needing to plug the fridge into someone else’s vehicle.

[sooty_10]

I should have looked at your setup as I want to do something similar. How did you split off the 6 b&s? Did you use a bus bar or something ?

The fuse blocks I used are from Jaycar and they had a decent sized stud for the power input. I simply used battery lugs crimped onto the 6 B&S and bolted them to the fuse block terminal.

866.JPG

[the evil twin]

I’ll bow to ET’s experience on the fridge plug. I’ve never had an Engel, & assumed that all fridge plugs were much the same. For those folk who do change their (non engel) fridge plugs to Anderson plugs I suppose it may be a wise move to make up a short adaptor cable with an anderson on one end & a ciggy type plug on the other if there is a possibility of needing to plug the fridge into someone else’s vehicle.

Need to say a quick sorry, Cuppa... just reread my post and it came across a bit uuuummmm terse and certainly wasn't how I meant it.

For the record I agree with 99% of the info prev posted in the thread.
The fridge plug info is just a very small part of the overall project.
It happened to be just after Cuppas post is all.

Many, many people are not aware how good the Engel plugs are or that the Ciggy Plug adapter is removeable and goes on or off in about 5 seconds.

[MudRunnerTD]

I just fixed a couple of odd predictive script stuff in my first post.

I just read ETs comments on the engel plugs. I have no experience with them so I will trust what ET say and I simply can't think of a time where he has led us a stray! He knows stuff!

I will say tough the Anderson plug works a treat. They are cheap and easy to work out. I have made an adapter Anderson plug to Ciggy plug if I ever want to use it elsewhere. Works for me. I don't have an Anderson plug in the GQ (must do that) so use the adapter when running the engel in the GQ.