Hi Newtz, I've just installed one myself. Maybe my story will help.
Situation:
The threaded port for the EGT probe in my exhaust system was 1/4 NPT, the EGT probe was 1/8 NPT.
Wiring didn't reach anywhere near where I needed and the rubber bung through the firewall was a total b!t^h to get through.
I don't have a wiring diagram to explain the colours of the wires going to the internal fuse block connectors on the back, nor did they match the locations of the fuses on the front, nor did I have the patience to follow them back to their sources!
Actions:
Went to the local PIRTEK shop and got a reducing bush for the EGT probe.
Soldered extension wires of same colouring and heat shrunk the connections.
Taped the relevant wiring to the end of a screwdriver and pushed it through the rubber bung, then routed it through the engine bay.
Used the Narva ADD A CIRCUIT connectors, used by WANG, such a great help and prevented me pulling the fuse block and dash apart to find the wiring paths.
NOTE:
I had to drill a port into the Turbo Heat Shield to run the EGT probe wiring.
I wired into the:
Park lamps - to reduce the illumination intensity when the headlights go on.
Meter circuit - to turn the gauges on when the ignition is turned to ON. (same circuit for the dash cluster)
Batt Instruments - for the constant power source to save my presets on the gauges.
Fuse block body negative - beside accelerator pedal, behind the kick panel, to ground the whole assembly.
Hope that helps. By the by, I recommend you solder your connections if they aren't a crimp or plug type, it will save you intermittent problems down the track. Just be sure to cover them properly so they don't short on anything.
Cheers,
Lexx
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