If you want the hazard light to work all you need is two 12 volt relays.
The 12 volt relays are switched on by the module and supply 24 volt to your hazard lights.
If you want the hazard light to work all you need is two 12 volt relays.
The 12 volt relays are switched on by the module and supply 24 volt to your hazard lights.
Thanks mate not sure if I'm going to bother the noise of the central locking is enough to let me know I'm not too worried about the lights flashingOriginally Posted by Yendor
The other option is to look at how the power windows work (if you have powered windows).
My truck automatically winds the windows up when I activate the central looking remote. - unfortunately I dont know how the wiring was interfaced - as the kit was installed when i purchased the truck
1991 GQ LWB 4.2 Carby dual fuel, 32 mud claws, 2 inch lift, LSD's front and back
And its Toooooooo High for the Ball & chain
I wonder is someone can give me some advice the drivers door actuator arrived today with a pretty minimal wiring diagram and I'm just wondering if anyone else has used something similar and got the wiring sussed. In the door I have a black (common), blue (open) and purple (close) connected onto the system I bought I will repost the wiring diagrams that came with that and also the wiring diagram for the actuator. I played around with it for a while tonight but couldn't get it to work. Hope someone can help
2014-04-15 21.23.28.jpg
This is the wiring diagram for the kit
2014-04-23 19.42.57.jpg
And this is the one for the actuator
Connect the Blue and Green wires of the actuator to the the Green and Purple wires of the module.
If the actuator works opposite to the other doors swap the wires over.
Thats how I connected it up earlier but it didn't work. Problem is there's 5 cables coming out of the actuator and theres also the existing 3 cables from the central locking originally (black,blue and purple)
The 5 wire actuators are a master/control actuator. The extra 3 wires are connected to switches inside the actuator that make and break when the actuator locks and unlocks. You don't need to connect these.
With the Patrols all you need is a slave actuator (2x wire) but you should still be able to use the 5 wire one, just don't connected the other 3 wires.
Do you have the actuator mounted in the door yet? have you tried suppling direct power to the actuator?
There was another thread recently were the OP couldn't get the actuator to work directly from the module. He ended up having to wire the new drivers door actuator in parallel to the other door lock actuators. Not sure if this is an option with your vehicle being 24 volt. Do you know if the original actuators are 12 or 24 volt?
chrisc2306 (24th April 2014), Parksy (23rd April 2014)
+1 to what yendor said. Just leave the original setup in the door, you don't need to touch it. Install any of the actuators into the drivers door.
Are you having issues making the actuator work? Have you used number 2 diagram and hooked up all the relevant wires? I know it would seem strange to have a few wires going to +, but this is how it goes.
IMO and should be taken with a grain of salt.
chrisc2306 (24th April 2014)
Pink and orange to 12v+ and black and white to earth. As well as the other 12v inputs the unit asks for.
IMO and should be taken with a grain of salt.
You guys are awesome! Got it sorted tonight bit embarrassing to say because I'm an electrician but it was actually the fuse that was gone in the module. Once that was sorted I played around with the wiring a bit and got it sorted. Connected the old cables (black,blue and purple) onto the common, normally open and normally closed contacts in the actuator as well and stripped out the old one so now everything works perfectly. Thanks again for your help guys much appreciated
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote