Hey just a thought. I have a dump pipe which I have gutted the cat in it and it has the bung in the pipe. Its kind of a loan pipe that members have used and I just pass it around and when they get a new pipe, they just give it back. If you want to loan it, so you can get your gauges in. Then get your bigger zorst and get the bung welded in The offer is there.
Last edited by mudski; 3rd February 2014 at 09:27 PM.
Paule (4th February 2014)
thank you very much mudski, you r too kind and I might just take you up on your offer when i get back from os. I'm going for 2 weeks for work, wish it was a holiday, lol. Also i checked out your link and ill get the egr plate, needle and dawes valve from you in the not to distant futre. Once again thank you for the offer and thanks for all your help.
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
mudski (5th February 2014)
Too easy bud.
Well I'm back from Poland and ready to continue my nads. Im thinking of doing the egr plate and Dawes needle and valve next. Is it ok to do before I fit the egt gauge up? Ive got the boost gauge done and I'm only getting about 4 or 5 psi at 100kmh on flat road.
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
with low boost your EGTs might be high, I'd be putting in the EGT gauge
first then when you fiddle with the dawes you can see whats happening
Ideally you'd want 10psi at 100kph
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
I have seen the egt's increase about 75 - 100c when my boost was dropping to 5 at 100km/h, still within safe limits but running hotter than necessary and already hot if you hit a good incline I would see big figures pretty quickly, so take it easy till you do the gauge. It's a tough one to decied which to do first as i feel those boost figures will be causing high egt's and so need rectifying asap, and you need the gauge to see what the egt's are. Just don't do the EGR plate without both the Dawes and needle valves as this will also cause boost probs on a Di.Originally Posted by Paule
Lemo.
2006 GU IV ST 3.0L TD Di
Autron Boost and EGT, Dual Bat, Dawes & Needle Valves, ARB Alloy rack, more to come.
Thanks 3dogs and Leno. Yeah I've read on the forum that low boost = high egt. I've got an egt gauge and probe but had some problems fitting it to the stock dump pipe, also I want to upgrade my zoorst to a 3" soon so I thought I'd wait till then. After seeing my boost figures I thought the best thing to do would be the dawes needle and valve as this would lower my egt's.
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
STD mine ran very low boost figures, then I did the gauges first.
then fitted the dawes with the help of Boots, then later fitted the needle valve.
Then over the next few months fiddled with the Dawes and needle till I got it to a point where
I thought everything looked right boost egts etc. Max boost on mine is 20psi and boost at 100kph is 10 psi
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Ok so I've had a win today, I got the bloody heat shield off. Yes. I've drilled and tapped the dump pipe and got the thermocouple in, still not wired up but I'm well on my way. The question I've got is, is it ok to drive with the heat shield off? I will put it back on after trimming it up and putting a hole in it for the probe. Is any one driving around without the shield in place?
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
Anyone driving around without the turbo heatshield on?
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
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