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Thread: To buy or rebuild.

  1. #21
    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Isnt blue printing just records of every measurement, weight, tolerances etc, if it is a slow build why not record every little detail.

    If for some reason you change mechanic or something and something goes wrong and needs major surgery, ( for a non build quality related reason) at least you could give the new engine builder a specific set of specs to build your engine to
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  2. #22
    Patrol Freak krbrooking's Avatar
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    Sorry Mark for some reason I thought it was auto. How much work are you going to have to do to get the 4.2 to fit and if you don't mind how much are you looking at spending.

    @nissannewby

    I think that is what I am going to have to do so I can afford to get the motor of my choice.



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  3. #23
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    Marks conversion is a little easier as the 4.2 and 3.0 use the same box, clutch etc. diff ratios in his are closer suited to a 4.2 on 33's.

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    mudski (24th January 2014)

  5. #24
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Kev. TBH I don't know how much this will cost in the end mate. As its a slow build, I will do bit by bit as the fund allow for it. I'm guessing it will still cost close to the 10k mark. Guessing.
    I haven't even started on my TD42 yet as my gaming pc shat a video card and that cost $800 to replace. So I have to wait a bit for the funds to come back up.
    So I hope the TD42 guys don't mind me scratching their brains soon.

  6. #25
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Surprised you have never heard of de burring and enamelling the block.
    it aids in oil return to the oil pump,
    And yes I do know what I'm talking about.
    This was done on my mates 335RwKw Patrol
    This has been around for ages, look it up if not familiar with it

    @ Mudski would ceramic coating the piston tops help your engine rebuild
    Last edited by threedogs; 25th January 2014 at 09:28 AM.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Dales300exc (25th January 2014)

  8. #26
    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    I dont know anything about deburring engine blocks, I havnt heard of it.

    If there are burrs wouldnt that be related to a questionable build or tooling quality, and for some reason they are still there after they leave the factory?
    Can some one explain this please
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  9. #27
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    Surprised you have never heard of de burring and enamelling the block.
    it aids in oil return to the oil pump,
    And yes I do know what I'm talking about.
    This was done on my mates 335RwKw Patrol
    This has been around for ages, look it up if not familiar with it

    @ Mudski would ceramic coating the piston tops help your engine rebuild
    I am familiar with de burring, but enamelling is not a term I'm familiar with? Enamel is a paint I know that much . As for doing them in a TD42 it's not required.

    Ceramic coating is good and has some nice benefits. You can get piston crowns, valves, exhaust manifolds etc etc done. Also Teflon coating the skirts of the piston is a good idea if you have sent them away for ceramic coating. The ceramic coating helps with keeping the heat in the combustion gas so you don't loose it's heat to your piston, head etc. This is beneficial on turbo diesel (diesels don't burn as hot as petrols) as retaining the heat in the gas allows your turbo to work better .

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    threedogs (25th January 2014)

  11. #28
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    basically smoothing as much OE faults in the casting where they flash .{over pour}
    a lot of high HP motor have this done, the enamel is not paint but enamel like pots and pan,
    this will help along with de burring. Like a port and polish for the block, takes ages .
    I'd would be burring Mudski block as time isn't a factor on the rebuild.

    Bit off OE topic though

    Edit it was done to a very highly strung 4.8 turbo petrol
    Last edited by threedogs; 25th January 2014 at 11:05 AM.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

  12. #29
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    basically smoothing as much OE faults in the casting where they flash .{over pour}
    a lot of high HP motor have this done, the enamel is not paint but enamel like pots and pan,
    this will help along with de burring. Like a port and polish for the block, takes ages .
    I'd would be burring Mudski block as time isn't a factor on the rebuild.

    Bit off OE topic though

    Edit it was done to a very highly strung 4.8 turbo petrol
    Still there is absolutely no gain to be had in marks application. Yes there might be very minor gains in a race application where the engine is beyond 4000rpm most of its life. At td42 only revs to 4500 so deburring etc is just extra work for nothing really.

    It was common practice back in the day on race engines due to poor oil quality and castings, cast iron blocks are more porous than alloy blocks. Oil and castings have come along way since then in quality. Many newer engine blocks will not require it due to most of them being alloy and mostly being cnc'ed so no casting defects.

    At a very minimum when doing a rebuild I would be balancing.

  13. #30
    Patrol Freak krbrooking's Avatar
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    Ok to get back on topic. I believe I have solved my over heating prob (touching wood!!!) so my car might last a bit longer than I thought. So I think I am going to be doing what Mark is doing and buying an engine and gearbox and slowly rebuild it when I can afford it. So I will let everyone know when I am ready to try and get hold of the bits I need and what is the best to get and where from. Thanks for everyone's advice so far. Once I have started I will prob start a build thread to make it easier to follow.



    Live life, Love life.
    Snatch straps on towballs can harm and/or kill!!!!!!

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