New clutch fan not working

[MudRunnerTD]

Yep still thinking air lock then, at Idle your car should sit all day and lucky to get to a operating temp let alone to a temp that requires the viscous fan to engage.

I have the same turbo setup on the GQ. I assume you have an after market gauge fitted to read those temps. I have Never seen my GQ at 115c even after sitting in a Bog Hole revving at 3000 for an hour trying to get charge into a pair of flat batteries so I could do a triple line pull winch out. My Fan was not functioning either and I rebuilt it after that trip. But 115 is at the high end of happy.

Bleed her out and see what happens, I do not think this is a problem with the Turbo, if there is a problem it's either in your cooling system or the engine. If the bleed works then at high idle you should not see over 100 while bleeding I would not expect?? Yet your description suggests you might see 115? Hope the bleed sorts it out mate. The TD should run fairly cool, the fan hub is not the be all and end all, it's just a treatment for an symptom. Hopefully the bleed sorts it for you mate. Either that or it will present with continuos bubbling that does not desist or reduce and then there is your answer.

Good luck with the bleed.

[MudRunnerTD]

Just out of interest, how much boost are you running mate?

[BLKWDW]

Yep still thinking air lock then, at Idle your car should sit all day and lucky to get to a operating temp let alone to a temp that requires the viscous fan to engage.

I have the same turbo setup on the GQ. I assume you have an after market gauge fitted to read those temps. I have Never seen my GQ at 115c even after sitting in a Bog Hole revving at 3000 for an hour trying to get charge into a pair of flat batteries so I could do a triple line pull winch out. My Fan was not functioning either and I rebuilt it after that trip. But 115 is at the high end of happy.

Bleed her out and see what happens, I do not think this is a problem with the Turbo, if there is a problem it's either in your cooling system or the engine. If the bleed works then at high idle you should not see over 100 while bleeding I would not expect?? Yet your description suggests you might see 115? Hope the bleed sorts it out mate. The TD should run fairly cool, the fan hub is not the be all and end all, it's just a treatment for an symptom. Hopefully the bleed sorts it for you mate. Either that or it will present with continuos bubbling that does not desist or reduce and then there is your answer.

Good luck with the bleed.

I have always filled it up with coolant and waited for the bubbling to stop which it always has. If it doesnt head gasket? my oil changes have never been milky and i just did one at same time as changing the coolant.

Just out of interest, how much boost are you running mate?

Its running at 14psi atm no cooler.

[MudRunnerTD]

Its running at 14psi atm no cooler.

Once the the bleed is sorted then take it for a drive. Watch your pyro temps and check them on a good hill. Then increase your boost to 16 for the test and do the hill again and see what difference it makes, you could be over fuelling slightly too mate, you have not done the Dyno so increasing boost will compensate for over fuelling and you may see a drop in pyro temps with the increased boost. If this is the case then run at 16 or turn back the fuel a little. Do all this with a clean air filter though.

[BLKWDW]

Once the the bleed is sorted then take it for a drive. Watch your pyro temps and check them on a good hill. Then increase your boost to 16 for the test and do the hill again and see what difference it makes, you could be over fuelling slightly too mate, you have not done the Dyno so increasing boost will compensate for over fuelling and you may see a drop in pyro temps with the increased boost. If this is the case then run at 16 or turn back the fuel a little. Do all this with a clean air filter though.

WIll give it a try. Air filter is brand new replaced the oil, fuel and 2 air filters for the trip. Actually boost gauge only reads to 15psi

[BLKWDW]

Drained the coolant added some rad flush then top up with coolant. started adding the coolant then pretty much straight away coolant starting coming out the little hose that sits above the thermostat and goes to the filler neck on the rad as i could see it flowing into the rad. My guess would be it shouldnt be doing this if the thermostat is closed so maybe the thermostat is stuck open?

Also filled it up to try and get rid of the bubbles like u's said but all it did was fill up the over flow bottle. The rubber on the rad cap looks a bit dodgy as well so might replace it.

Got it running now ata bout 1500rpm and temp is still climbing an the fan is on and has been on since the start and isnt turning of. not sure what iits problem is but temp is still climbing. The stock temp gauge was at 0 but the aftermarket one was still on 60 degrees not sure if its faulty or bcos the car was sitting in the sun with bonnet up and shining on the rad? It did drop bout 5-10 degrees before starting to climb again. I still have car running so will give it a bit more time then drain coolant pull rad out and clean again and change thermostat. I ended up buying a highflow dayco thermostat with an opening temp of 73 degrees i think it was or maybe 76

[BLKWDW]

It has seemed to have stopped and sit just before 80 degrees now.

[MudRunnerTD]

It has seemed to have stopped and sit just before 80 degrees now.

Is that with the radiator cap off or on?

I use a funnel and have wrapped the pipe section with electrical tape until its a snug fit into the radiator cap opening then fill the funnel to hold half full and let it run at high idle. You should to be draining to the overflow ?

[BLKWDW]

with cap on. when it filled up and overflowed out the overflow bottle i put the cap on. i have pics to show u the thermostat. when i took it out and put it in cold water in a pot it didnt close up either.

[BLKWDW]

this is the thermostat after pulling it out at 80 degrees


this is it after 5 min in pot of cold water