OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: GU Door Trim Removal (how to guide)

  1. #1
    Hardcore 04OFF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Brisbane,QLD
    Posts
    2,574
    Thanks
    755
    Thanked 2,062 Times in 938 Posts
    Mentioned
    12 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Post GU Door Trim Removal (how to guide)

    Due to a few people asking about removing door trims in the past, I decided the next time I remove "my" door trim, id get some pics up with instructions.

    My GU (and so this guide) is a series 1 GU Wagon (1999) but this info may help others with later models as where to look/pull, but no guarantee as to what is the same tho.





    Ive started the instructions in a certain order, so the first few steps can be followed, even if you ONLY wish to remove the power window switch cluster, if you use a screwdriver or other metal tool to pry/lever (butter knife, scraper etc) , use a rag or wrap the screwdriver/tool in tape so you reduce damage to the plastic trim/s.




    What my door trim looks like......







    First step, pull up at the rear section of the elbow rest pad, this normally can be done by hand, if its very tight, you may need a paint scraper covered with a rag, or suitable tool that wont scratch into the plastic.








    As in the pic below, you can see underneath how the elbow rest pad has a tongue and groove at the front (red circle), as you lift the back end up, the front can now be withdrawn clear.








    Next remove the Philips head screw in the door handle cavity (blue arrow)







    Now removal of the window switch cluster panel, is the same as the elbow rest pad, lift up at the rear, tongue and groove at the front.








    The red circle below shows the tongue at the front of the window switch panel.

    Once you have exposed the window switch wires, you need to unplug the wiring loom from the window switch, you need to first push the locking tab with a screwdriver (red arrow), then withdraw the plug and wires in the direction of the blue arrows.




    The plug may be a little stiff, you can jiggle the plug a little, but don't use excessive force as you may damage the switch, and try not to pull using the wires themselves, get a friend to help hold it all if you find are struggling.



    Now remove the three large Phillips head screws you have now exposed, the pic below shows red crosses where the screws are located (screws not shown)






    Next you can remove the surround for the internal door release, it will unclip first from the rear, move you fingers/tool around underneath as you go and work it off, DON"T force it in one pull, as you may break the plastic.





    This pic shows how its clipped on








    Next remove the triangle shape door mirror bolt cover, it pretty much just pulls off, you may have a trim clip with a "push centre" to release, it will be visible in the lower left corner (mine is a push in xmas tree clip), remove this clip first before pulling the trim.




    Try to pull the trim off without twisting it, if you twist it the plastic tabs on the rear can snap off, this is the rear view, red circles showing plastic tabs..







    Now grab under the lip of the lower rear section of the trim, pull the trim toward you, (you may need someone to hold the door as you pull) you will feel/hear the trim clips move, once one is popped, work you way along the bottom of the door trim until the lower trim is free.

    Then do the same working up popping the clips that run vertical on each side (DO NOT pull the very top of the door trim where it meets the window)





    Once the clips are removed, the door trim should now be just hanging from the top, it is hooked over at the top of the door, and so needs to be LIFTED UP, hold the bottom of the door trim out a little so it can move freely, start lifting at the rear as shown below.





    This pic shows the behind the top of the door trim, and the hook shape at the top of the trim, it runs the full length of the trim



    If you struggle to get the trim unhooked at the top, It can often be easier to remove and refit the hook part, with the window glass in the fully DOWN position, (of course then you have to plug the window switch in again to move the glass up to get into the door cavity)


    If you are working outside (as I do) have a blanket/towel to put the trim on flat, if you stand them up against a wall/the car, they get blown over easy by wind, and are very easy to damage/scratch.








    Fitting is just the reverse, take note if any clips pulled off the trim and remained on the door itself, these will need to be refitted to the trim before installation of the trim.

    I find cheap crimp terminal pliers are great for removing clips left on the door, but long nose pliers can also work.

    To insert a clip back into the door trim, (look at the other clips for guidance), you insert clip into the big hole, and slide it over into the small hole side, thus trapping the head of the clip in place.




    Another thing to remember, is to poke the power window switch wires up through the door trim "before" you push all the door trim clips home.


    Hope this helps someone, BTW, the rear doors are almost identical in the way they are put together.


    <a href=http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/02ard/PatrolcomAvatar-1-1.jpg target=_blank>http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...Avatar-1-1.jpg</a>

  2. The Following 17 Users Say Thank You to 04OFF For This Useful Post:

    AB (14th January 2014), Bazhemps (17th January 2014), Bob (17th January 2014), Clunk (14th January 2014), FNQGU (14th January 2014), growler2058 (3rd March 2016), GUtsy ute (17th January 2014), Hodge (16th January 2014), jack (14th January 2014), janderson (16th January 2014), maasa2002 (4th October 2015), MudRunnerTD (14th January 2014), my third 256 (17th January 2014), Nick-o-larse (7th May 2018), NissanGQ4.2 (14th January 2014), the evil twin (14th January 2014), wolften (17th January 2014)

  3. #2
    Administrator AB's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Christmas Hills - Yarra Glen - Victoria
    Posts
    28,382
    Thanks
    13,820
    Thanked 21,257 Times in 8,713 Posts
    Mentioned
    596 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Great effort on the detailed DIY mate. I'm sure it will help hundreds in the future who don't reply to the thread either!

  4. #3
    Dribble Master Clunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    22,555
    Thanks
    14,474
    Thanked 12,763 Times in 7,162 Posts
    Mentioned
    119 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Jeez you've got hairy arms mate!!!!!!!!


  5. #4
    Patrol Freak
    FNQGU's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Cairns, Queensland
    Posts
    1,324
    Thanks
    903
    Thanked 1,653 Times in 591 Posts
    Mentioned
    21 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Great, thanks for the tips. Just what I needed.

    I don't suppose you happen to be pulling off the inside panels in your cargo area and rear doors next by any chance….
    Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.

  6. #5
    Hardcore jack's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Ballarat Area
    Posts
    2,697
    Thanks
    5,596
    Thanked 3,828 Times in 1,532 Posts
    Mentioned
    25 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Great post, now I hope I can find it when I need to remove a door trim.
    Cheers
    Jack

    2024 Isuzu MUX
    Formerly 2012 Simpson 50th Anniversary Edition.

    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

  7. #6
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    15,478
    Thanks
    12,370
    Thanked 13,616 Times in 6,650 Posts
    Mentioned
    333 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Great write up 4OFF, I can highly recommend everyone buys a Trim Removal Kit like THIS for a couple of dollars on ebay of under $20 at Supercheap. I even got a set at Bunnings for a couple of dollars. Soooooo Handy
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MudRunnerTD For This Useful Post:

    FNQGU (15th January 2014), my third 256 (17th January 2014)

  9. #7
    us poms are crap at cricket fracster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    North West England.
    Posts
    1,103
    Thanks
    293
    Thanked 1,015 Times in 387 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Good write up and pics mate, thanks.
    It is now official, we are not quite so sh@t at cricket as we were! Rugby Union is a different matter.

  10. #8
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,649
    Thanks
    5,760
    Thanked 6,168 Times in 3,168 Posts
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Thanks for writing this up mate! I have a minor grinding noise when window goes up and the glass it's self seems a bit loose, so this will come in very handy once I rip the door apart.
    2005 TD42TI

  11. #9
    us poms are crap at cricket fracster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    North West England.
    Posts
    1,103
    Thanks
    293
    Thanked 1,015 Times in 387 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Andy, would there be any mileage in putting threads like this in a dedicated section where they are easier t find. There are loads of great,helpful, threads like this on this forum. Perhaps create a section and sticky them all so they are easy to find.

    If not, then i`ll shut up and mind my own business..................
    It is now official, we are not quite so sh@t at cricket as we were! Rugby Union is a different matter.

  12. #10
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,791
    Thanks
    2,164
    Thanked 7,527 Times in 3,037 Posts
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Good timing. I’ll need to remove both my door trims in the near future to fit the new speakers which Mr eBay is sending me.

    Being a Dx it doesn’t have electric windows, just the old fashioned manual winder. Can anyone add to this thread with advice on how the manual winder is removed?

    Just bought one of the trim removal kits MR linked to. Might help me not to bust the clips like on previous occasions when removing door trims

    Thanks 04OFF & MR
    Last edited by Cuppa; 16th January 2014 at 10:29 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper.
    Patrol Sold after 11 years of ownership Replaced with 2006 OKA NT Expedition Truck. Cummins, Allison & lots of goodies
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •