Dawes valve, egr block for a dummy with a crd

[Rumcajs]

Thanks rumcajs,
does it matter if the middle one is not blocked( the one that went to the actuator originally), I have looped other two.i have tried to follow Chaz's instructions but do notice the "damper" is on the vacuum pump line where as on the crd it is on the actuator line( I changed it to the vacuum pump line as per his drawing.. Is that right?

I'd blocked all ports on the solenoid so as not to get it filthy, you never know when you want to re use it again. The damper is the same on Di as well, when you change over to needle valve it is on the vac line.

I seem to now get a max boost of 18.6 on the scan gauge( which reads 18 on my pod gauge), would that be too high or just right.

That's perfectly OK for CrD, I get that on mine (Di)

Now for adjustment of the needle, I think I got it right.... I idled the engine with it wound all the way in then as I watched the actuator arm I wound the needle out until I saw the arm drop slightly, then I wound it back in again until it was just about to hit the stop again.. Sound right?

Yep that's your initial setting.

I have notice exactly what you said, the boost does not fluctuate now it is steady, but now at 2000 rpm it sits on about 16( when doing a touch under 100 km/h).

Do you have Dawes fitted? 16 psi at 100km/h under cruising (not under hard acceleration/uphill) is a little too high, maybe 11-13 psi is more ideal under reasonable load, you'll get better eco. I'm guessing yours is an auto by the revs@100kn/h

Now I think its time for trial and error tuning. Try open the needle valve a slightly and see what boost you'll get than.

Cheers