How much for the Dynamat, Parksy? The local Autopro has a box of it for around $300.
How much for the Dynamat, Parksy? The local Autopro has a box of it for around $300.
Last edited by mudnut; 14th November 2013 at 11:50 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
I bought it off eBay mudnut. 36 square feet for 183. I saw autobarns prices for it and nearly fell over. Over 200 for the "door kit" which is only a couple of sheets.
That's normal price but they do knock 100 off as their "specials" price. Tonkins here in the Mount are currently doing it for $200..Originally Posted by mudnut
Cheers
Kallen Westbrook
mudnut (14th November 2013)
All back together now. The difference is amazing! Feels like a different car infact. Gearbox and engine noise is a lot quieter, road noise is muffled and no heat transfer from the firewall into the cabin what so ever. Dashboard is solid as a rock aswell, very pleased with the results! The car feels even more solid and is very nice to drive! Still plan to dynamat the rest of the doors and get rid of the fatmat in the cargo section and dynamat it then chuck some acoustic liner ontop.
Great products and I highly recommend people do it to their patrols. The dashboard isn't hard to remove, if anyone wants some pointers I can help.
Yes please. Lol. But gotta do the rust repair first..
Cheers
Kallen Westbrook
Rust repair?
Dash removal is simple, it just seems daunting because lots of components gets removed. The trick is to label each component and keep the hardware with each item. But in a nutshell, the steering wheel is removed aswell as the covers, instrument panel and surround, center dash and radio, and the glove box. Then there are 13 screws that hold the dash onto the car. 2 on each end, 4 across the top close to the windscreen under the plastic caps, one under the instrument panel(which you will see when you remove the instrument panel and and 2 on each of the supports running down the middle of the dash(directly above the transmission tunnel).
There are a few components that will have to be removed or disconnected from the dash itself, the climate control panel will need to be removed by removing the fascia, then removing the 3 screws holding it to the dash. There's also a wire that runs from the climate controls to the airbox on the left which is secured to the dash with plastic clips, these need to be removed. There's a relay screwed to the dash in the middle of the dash on the right hand support(above the tranny tunnel). Either disconnect it electrically, or leave it connected and remove the one screw that holds it on. And that's about it, it's just a matter of pulling at the dash and it will come away and is easily removed by yourself. The only issue I had was manouvering it over the indicator and wiper stalks. But not impossible.
The ducting is very straight forward to remove, a couple of screws for each duct and they do come off in a specific order, but not hard to work out. The only duct I couldn't remove was the small one above the steering column, but it didn't get in the way anyway.
The climate controls need to be removed and disconnected at the ends of the wires, very simple. Just follow the wire to the end, unclip the metal clip, and the wire is freed. Then the actual controls are held on to the heater box with a screw.
Then the aircon/heater fan is held on with 3 nuts, just slides down(disconnect the electrical plug for the fan underneath). Don't disconnect the aircon condenser unless you want to regas it. But remove the nuts and the unit can be moved gently. The heater box is big and annoying but not impossible. Pop the bonnet and disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses, a small amount of coolant will dribble out. Then remove the 4 nuts holding it in place. There is also an electrical loom that runs across the unit which is held in place with a brace on the unit, just needs to be unscrewed and the loom can be moved away. The heater box can then be removed, but it's abit cumbersome trying to manouver it out because of the loom and the aircon box. Coolant will more than likely run out of the hoses as you move the unit, so have rags ready.
BigRAWesty (16th November 2013), mudnut (15th November 2013), threedogs (16th November 2013)
That's for that. But yea rust.
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D/S rear seat point. Shouldn't be to bad just another thing on the list..
Cheers
Kallen Westbrook
Yeah cut that shit out. All bits of rust were treated on my floor then I penetrolled the entire floor. This stuff just soaks into the metal and sticks and dries within 24 hours. Water just beads off it and it just made the dynamat stick so well!
BigRAWesty (16th November 2013)
Front passenger door done and also the rear door insides have also been done.
@ Parksy did you only apply to plastic on door not the door skin itself
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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