Suspension spring rates etc

[altech]

Hi Threedogs, suspension is shot. Needs replacing before anything else. Limited funds so on a needs basis.

Hi Covo71, I got this package deal from EBay and it has answered my ? at that time about the extra weight that you need to think about down the line . eg winch , draw unit full of stuff . I got this package due to my "Tax return" lol . but like many can't be spending money on cars , when the family comes first. anyway check it out , I think its a good deal . $590
2 x Raised 50mm Front Australian Made King Coil Springs - Heavy Duty Rated for up to Additional 150kg in Accessories
2 x Raised 50mm Rear Australian Made King Coil Springs - Heavy Duty Rated for up to Additional 300kg in Accessories
4 x Extended Travel 35mm Big Bore Heavy Duty Gas Shock Absorbers. Warranty = Shock absorber: 3 Year 100,000km for passenger cars , King Springs: 2 Year for passenger cars
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281027451...84.m1423.l2649

[Covo71]

Hey guys, just been to the 4wd show at Eastern Creek. Gonna go and get the Dobinson's. $800 for the springs and shocks. Bull bar and T-Max winch for $1350. so for the price I will suffer and eat baked beans for a couple of weeks and get them now and that will alleviate the problem.

[Drewboyaus]

Hey guys, just been to the 4wd show at Eastern Creek. Gonna go and get the Dobinson's. $800 for the springs and shocks. Bull bar and T-Max winch for $1350. so for the price I will suffer and eat baked beans for a couple of weeks and get them now and that will alleviate the problem.

You'll want to think about what you are putting in the back too.
I put my OME lift in before I had fitted bugger all accessories but worked it out based on what I intended to add over time. It meant the Q drove like a go kart until I fitted up winch, battery etc and in the rear, fridge, drawers cargo barrier, rear bar......
Now it rides exactly as I intended. But You need to work out how much you intend on carrying in accessories and "stuff" and base your spring rates on that.
As others have said, that mechanic is an idiot. Maybe he was thinking he could sell you the burger with the lot!

[Covo71]

Ok, got the springs and shocks and a steering dampener at the end of the week. 2" Dobinson's kit. Now to put them in? Do I need a spring compressor to put in the springs? Is there a specific order to take the existing gear out and put the new stuff in? Is it just as easy as undoing the shocks and putting in the new ones or do you haven't do something else? I know there are probably some saying get someone to do it but everyone who wants to do it has to do there first set some time? I have looked at some spring compressors and they look shonky as? Not sure if they are made to compress heavy duty 4wd springs as none of them seem to have a rating to what they can do? Unless someone has a set they can let me borrow on the nsw south coast?

[rottodiver]

Ok, got the springs and shocks and a steering dampener at the end of the week. 2" Dobinson's kit. Now to put them in? Do I need a spring compressor to put in the springs? Is there a specific order to take the existing gear out and put the new stuff in? Is it just as easy as undoing the shocks and putting in the new ones or do you haven't do something else? I know there are probably some saying get someone to do it but everyone who wants to do it has to do there first set some time? I have looked at some spring compressors and they look shonky as? Not sure if they are made to compress heavy duty 4wd springs as none of them seem to have a rating to what they can do? Unless someone has a set they can let me borrow on the nsw south coast?

Really don't need spring compressors for a 2 inch lift, and they area pain to use if you ask me.... When you undo the shocks on the rear and drop linkages ( I am not a mechanic so I don't know correct terms but you will see them the second you do the and know what I mean) you can lower the diff and the springs will fall out( providing car is high enough on stands) and the front is a little easier but same theory, but they will just fall in and out and just make sure the springs mounts correctly...
Sorry a little vague on terminology but if I can do the suspension anyone can..
Oh if you are using castor correctors you will need to get them pressed in

Scotty

[happygu]

Really don't need spring compressors for a 2 inch lift, and they area pain to use if you ask me.... When you undo the shocks on the rear and drop linkages ( I am not a mechanic so I don't know correct terms but you will see them the second you do the and know what I mean) you can lower the diff and the springs will fall out( providing car is high enough on stands) and the front is a little easier but same theory, but they will just fall in and out and just make sure the springs mounts correctly...
Sorry a little vague on terminology but if I can do the suspension anyone can..
Oh if you are using castor correctors you will need to get them pressed in

Scotty

Rotto and Covo,

I have always found the rears to be a little easier doing it at home in the driveway, as the arms will freely articulate a little more, and the springs basically drop out. With the fronts, you have to get the spring over the spring seat on the diff, which can be a little tricky if you want to keep all your fingers intact......

The fronts were much easier when I realized I could use a jack on the corner I was working on to release the spring pressure.

Mic

[Covo71]

How do you mean using the jack on the corner you are working on?

[happygu]

Covo,

You will need to think safety, safety ....

You will need a method of jacking your car up high enough, so that the diff / wheels are off the ground, and you definitely need a set of safety stands under the car as support, just in case something goes horribly wrong - don't want to hear about a squashed Covo ......

I used my highlift jack, which sounds dangerous, but with the correct safety stands, made it quite safe and quite easy. ( Probably the only time the highlift jack has been useful )

PROCESS :
REARS :
Start by undoing the rear shocks, and remove - keeping all the nuts and washers together. ( these need to be replaced anyway but they are handy when you lose a nut/ washer in the install process )
Then undo your swaybar links and remove - keeping all the nuts, washers and links together ( these need to be replaced anyway )

Important.....undo the brake line bolt that holds the brake distribution tee block to the diff ( at the bottom of the flexible rubber brake line to the diff ), and also release the closest clips that hold the brake line to the diff, and make sure that the block is unclipped from the tag that holds it so it can move freely - I normally push it up, bending the solid lines a little , so I know it is clear and it wont catch. ( Place bolt in a secure location, as it will get reused )

Next undo the diff breather from the top of the diff.

FRONTS:
Start by undoing the front shocks, and remove - keeping all the nuts and washers together. The fronts can tend to be a little harder to get the nuts undone and you can lose a fair bit of time getting these loose - you can also twist off the bottom tag on the pins fairly easily trying to hold them from spinning. Try putting some Penetrene, CRC, or equivalent on the threads and nuts the day before, as well as half an hour before you start

Then undo your swaybar links and remove - keeping all the nuts, washers and links together ( these need to be replaced anyway )

Important ( ONE for no ABS and TWO if you have ABS ), undo the brake line bolt that holds the brake distribution tee block to the diff ( at the bottom of the flexible rubber brake line to the diff ), and also release the closest clips that hold the brake line to the diff, and make sure that the block is unclipped from the tag that holds it so it can move freely - I normally push it up, bending the solid lines a little , so I know it is clear and it wont catch. ( Place bolt in a secure location, as it will get reused )

Next undo the diff breather from the top of the diff.


You are now ready to start the actual spring changeover. Have all your jacks handy, as well as your safety stands, and for additional safety, I would advise having a second person around.

Remove the appropriate wheel rim, but only remove when needed, to keep it all as safe as possible if the car moves on the jacks.

It is a good idea to have a jimmy bar handy, but I learnt the second time that the rear springs pop out real easy and you don't need to lever them out - replace them with the new longer springs as soon as you can after removing the old ones for safety reasons, and remember that the old springs will be shorter than the new ones, so you will need to jack it up a little higher to get the new springs in. Even though you are jacking up the whole of one end of the car at the time, I advise working on one side at a time, so that if the worst happened, it would only be one corner that will drop.

I also learnt that I could place a jack between the diff and the chassis ( with an appropriate block to sit it on ) on the corner I was working on to jack the diff downwards which helped to make it heaps easier to remove the front springs, and it made it so I didn't have to have the vehicle 3 foot off the ground too.

The longer springs go on the drivers side.

Install the new gear, and don't forget to reinstall the brake tee blocks and bolts, and reconnect the diff breathers too ....

I hope that this gives you a few pointers.

Mic

[happygu]

How do you mean using the jack on the corner you are working on?

The fronts will tend to droop only so far, but there will still be pressure on the front springs and they will be hard to remove. Placing a jack inbetween the diff and the chassis, allows you to push the corner down more than it naturally drops, which loosens the pressure of the front spring between the top of the tower and the spring seat on the diff.

[Covo71]

Thanks Mic, that is bloody awesome. I will be hooking in first thing in the morning. Got the gear, now get to use it. Seems stupid but feels like a Xmas present. There are blokes shaking there head right now. Haha