Extra Front Recovery Point

[nissannewby]

Wonder if the OP's club also recommend using a towball for recoveries? Seriously. Who in their right mind would recommend the OEM hook to do recoveries from?

Technically speaking you shouldn't exceed the tow rating either should you? So you can have some rated to 4.5t everyday of the week but the highest any patrol can tow is 3.5....

[mudski]

This thread reminds me of when I first got my Patrol and was after some front recovery points. Not knowing back then of a member here making them I went to my local 4by shop and asked them. The guy bought out some OEM Yota hooks that were half the size of the Nissan one. Funny thing is he couldn't see a problem with snatching someone out even using the Yota hook. Needless to say I never returned into that shop.
While the OEM Nissan hook would probably be o.k for light recoveries, I would not dare trust it if I was in need of a, erm, more forceful snatch.
Which reminds me again of some years back, maybe 15 or so when I had my MK shorty. Was stuck good and proper, hung up on the diffs in a large bog hole. On my ARB bar I had a hook on that. Which mind you was considerably thicker than the Nissan hook. An old Yota with a chev in it had to snatch me out and after a few shots the hook actually straightened out and the snatch flew off.
So thinking of that time there is no way in hell I would use the Nissan hook....Each to their own but bet very careful when using it and always be prepared for the worst.
Plus atleast using the aftermarket plates with one on each side of the chassis and using a bridle strap you are evenly pulling on the chassis, not just from one side. That seriously can't be good for the chassis.

[Mitch.mccabe]

And on the subject of snatching and recovery, what is the minimum size snatch strap everyone uses? I know different models are weighted different, but the general consensus

[cgm]

So I don't mean to cause any trouble in posting other sites products so please inform me if I shouldn't do it, But has anyone here tested this rear recovery point/option? These just go straight into the where the towbar goes right?
http://www.patrolapart.com.au/produc...ch-with-bow-2/
And these for the front? http://www.patrolapart.com.au/produc...ecovery-point/

Hi Mitch, I've just gone through this exercise, so will make some comments.

I was planning to buy from one of our members who is also a vendor sponsor (threedogs) with his Outback Ideas recovery points. Unfortunately my 4.8 is one of the few models that I could not get the front points from TD as the radiator hangs lower and his style will not fit in the gap. His were a little cheaper, but would not have come with the bolts. Also his looked slightly thicker than the yellow ones.

So I ended up buying the yellow ones that you have the link to at Patrolapart (you will find these same ones from various sites). What I really liked about them is that they came with all the bolts. Where I put the second one on the side where there was not already a hook I needed longer bolts and it was all part of the kit. I haven't actually used them yet, but they look good and have a rating written on them (from Aus, so I assume it is up to that standard). I don't know too much about bolts, but am used to looking for bolts marked 8.8 for high tensile. When I looked at these they had 12.9 marked on them, so I looked that up on the web and seems they are to a higher standard again, so should be good.

I'll attach a few pics.

For the rear, on my old truck I used exactly the same thing as your other link and it was convenient and worked well. On this one I don't have a tow hitch. I bought one of TD's rear points and was happy with the build, price and quick service to get it in the post. Not sure yet if I will use it though, as I think it will cause me problems with the rear step. It does not stick out very far and I reckon the shackle will pull down and dent the rear step. I might go back to the original "pintle" hook. I just need to do some more homework on the rating of the pintle hook. I am not sure in the whole discussion about how it compares to the whole discussion of "tow balls", which you definitely must never snatch from. I'll also put some pics of this up.

If you want to follow up with TD about his recovery points you can send him a PM or post to his vendor thread:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...covery-points/

Thanks,
Cameron.

[cgm]

And on the subject of snatching and recovery, what is the minimum size snatch strap everyone uses? I know different models are weighted different, but the general consensus

When you are using a Snatch strap, they are meant to stretch. Because of this it is important to get a strap that is suited to your vehicle. So, if you get one with a rating that is too small it will stretch too much and possibly break. If you get one with a rating that is too high then it won't stretch enough and will then put too much impact on the points it is attached too and possibly break those.

• GVM of my GU is meant to be about 3000kg (probably more full of too much crap + extra for being "stuck")
• Strap should be about 2-3 times that in the rating. 2.5 x 3000 = 7500 kg
• So an 8000 kg MBS strap should be the right one. (whereas the nice big 15000 kg one that looks the goods would not be suited)

You can read all about ratings as they apply to 4wding in links below. MBS is Minimum Breaking Strength - after this it could break. You will also see terms like WLL (Working Load Limit) and RLL (Recovery Load Limit) - these are the limit of what you should safely apply. I don't think there is too much law governing 4wd use of straps and markings - just an industry code of practice I believe. This is different than lifting gear for construction, etc. There are laws governing that and things like breaking point should be 5+ times the rated useage, etc. But it's not my area, so don't quote me.

The write ups on these things also for a similar reason suggest using vehicles of similar size/weight in a snatch recovery. Obviously that's best, but in the real world the ideal circumstances don't always exist and most of us will agree on common sense safety approach to some extent. But snatching can involve enormous forces, so cutting corners with safety can have deadly consequences - literally! Personally I don't like snatching if I don't have to as you can't control too much how much force is involved (too easy to back up and give it more until something gives - hopefully the stuck 4by and not one of the recovery points) . Mostly in the sand we get stuck on a ridge (on the peak of a dune) and you can pull off gently with a tight strap or if things are bad most in our group have a winch.

Having said that, the snatch strap is still in my kit and has it's place to be used. Others love them and use them all the time.

Use the forum search for "snatch strap" and you will find heaps of threads. Do the same on google and you'll find even more, but take note of some of the articles where things went wrong. People die (usually from silly things like snatching off a tow ball - should never be done). Keep a few of these articles in the back of your mind (or even front) when you do a snatch to make sure you take a common sense approach and keep you, your mates and family safe.

Sorry for the small rant, but it is an important topic.

Take a look at something like:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...atch-straps%29

You'll find the section, that mentions the different vehicle weights, etc.

SELECTING THE RIGHT RECOVERY STRAP
It is very important the correctly rated strap is used. A strap with a ‘too light’ breaking strength may break under load. A strap with ‘too heavy’ a breaking strength may not stretch properly and more stress will be placed on the recovery points, possibly causing damage or injury. The Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) of the strap should be between 2 and 3 times the Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) of the ‘lighter’ of the two vehicles used in the recovery process. Be aware that the Recovery Strap will be under greater load if the vehicle is bogged in mud, sand or heavily loaded. If the GVM is not stated on the identification plate of a vehicle or its registration certificate it could be available from the owner’s handbook or from the vehicle manufacturer.

You'll find pretty much the same info on some of the Snatch strap vendor sites. Like:

http://www.juststraps.com.au/instructions.htm

Lots of info there. Read things like "Force Calculation for Recovery2007.pdf". Gets you into thinking about extra forces required for how "stuck" the vehicle is or what angle you are pulling on (e.g. up hill).

[Oldmate1]

hi Kurt
you can have the genuine one of my truck mate for a carton of beer. i have just put some of three dogs ones on

[Kurt Bergmann]

Cheers, thanks for the offer but I have already put the Nissan one on as found some in stock. Next time I am up your way will let you know and maybe we could share a couple of cartons of beer.

[Kurt Bergmann]

Here is the photo of the Nissan recovery points as requested earlier in the thread.

[taslucas]

Ahhh so they are the stock factory ones. Do they actually call them "recovery" points or is it worded differently?

[megatexture]

145$ for that! you could have had mine free I was going to use it to hang a pot plant on but was afraid it would bend