ZD30 intake manifold removal help?

[Shaun 4x4]

I have been cleaning out the black crap from inside my engine.
I have done the throttle body, Intercooler and connecting pipe work.

I want to do the intake manifold but not sure how to take it off.
My workshop manual states that the coolant must be drained from the car.
Is this true?
Plus it has no photos to help.

I have searched and all I've really found is how to clean it once of and to replace the gasket when re installing.

Regards

Shaun

[my third 256]

try this link http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...read.php?13144
if not try pm( the ferret )he is in your neck of the woods ( he makes the blanking plates for the egr valve)

[Shaun 4x4]

try this link http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...read.php?13144
if not try pm( the ferret )he is in your neck of the woods ( he makes the blanking plates for the egr valve)

Thanks for that. I didn't come across that one.
But confirmed I need to dump the coolant and also remove the fuel lines.

Is this hard to do?

[threedogs]

An EGR blanking plate from "the Ferret " will stop that crud happening again,
it will now breathe heaps better, Have you NADDED yours I cant remember??
Don't mix coolants they WILL turn to GEL and stuff your motor.

[Shaun 4x4]

An EGR blanking plate from "the Ferret " will stop that crud happening again,
it will now breathe heaps better, Have you NADDED yours I cant remember??
Don't mix coolants they WILL turn to GEL and stuff your motor.

I have the the nads kit ready to go. Just wanted to clean the system out first
I have also already purchased an egr blanking plate from someone on here along with the Dawes valve but was told the egr blanking plate shouldn't be installed until the Dawes is done.

As for coolant do you just use the recommend nissan coolant from nissan or is this another subject with a million answers like engine oil?

[Shaun 4x4]

Well I've read a lot and asked a few people but it would seem there is no detailed instruction to find or be told on how to do this job. So I guess I'll wing it. Bought the new gaskets and coolant today.

[Rumcajs]

I didn't drain coolant when I did mine.
I can honestly tell you that this ain't the job to wing it. I'm a pro and it tested my patience, skills and tools assortment.

Fuel injection pipes will have you scratching your head and leave the EGR valve in the place just rotate it around with coolant hoses attached so it is out of way as needed, that way there is no need for added headache of draining/refilling coolant.

Also used some trade tricks to help persuade the EGR return pipe which will obstruct the manifold (last stud at the back of the engine).

If you are not mechanically minded I suggest not to tackle the job.

Allow for plenty of time and I hope you have access to pressure cleaner to blast the manifold after you soaked it with petrol or similar substance based cleaning agent and scraped the most of the gunk off.
Very messy job to clean it. (manifold) That black gunk is so hard to get of your hands so use surgical gloves or something. I found that using Petrol was the most effective and quickest way as well.

Have a fun

Cheers

[Shaun 4x4]

I am mechaniclly minded to an extent. I have removed the throtal body and intercool and cleaned all that out myself.
I used degreasser and my gerni to do them but will give the petrol a try.

I like the fact i dont have to do the coolant but want to get that done later down the track anyways as i dont know how old the currant stuff is.

As for the fuel injector pipes why will they have me sctatching my head? Im assuming they are the 4 very small diameter pipes that screw to the side of he engine?

[Rumcajs]

Intercooler and throttle body is a "walk in the park" stuff. Make sure you keep a track of all bolts, washers etc and where they belong. When in doubts take close up photos for later reminding where it all goes.

Injector lines are tricky/difficult to remove because of limited space especially on the injection pump. They're are even more difficult to put back in when you realize there is a specific sequence/order to put them back in which will mean that they interfere with each other. . Don't bend them, force them, keep them clean and don't tighten the lines before installing the brackets loosely. Of course make sure the lines nuts are hand tightened/started to a degree otherwise you doing something wrong if you need to start the thread with spanner. Fun time you'll love it. Oh and standard length spanner will take some magic to fit there.

Removing injector lines also means that the engine will be very difficult to start if you don't purge them while cranking which is almost impossible to do with all the crap hanging off the engine. So either prime lines before putting intercooler back, (it will be messy) or make sure your batteries are in the good order or have jump starting unit available. I had to use my second battery to boost starter one to keep cranking for that extra time. I think it took me 20 minutes of cranking and priming the system before it fired to back to life, I'd almost given up, when it finally started with corresponding smoke/misfiring and rattles.

Cheers

[Shaun 4x4]

I defiantly have the cranking time covered. Put a new industrial yellow top in there a few weeks ago

Yer I have learnt to always take pictures before I start a job so I know how it's meant to look.
I do believe I am capable of doing this job.

Good excuse to go buy some sidchrome stumpy spaners

Any way thanks heaps for your help it has cleared up a few issues so far.
I will be in touch soon with more question no doubt.

Will be doing this job weekend after next.